Category: Perrelet Watch

Perrelet Turbine Poker

La maison horlogère suisse Perrelet poursuit le développement de sa collection Turbine avec l’arrivée de cette nouveauté qui affiche sur son cadran, une quinte royale ! Pour le reste, on retrouve les caractéristiques de cette collection : un boitier de 44 mm en acier PVD noir embarquant un calibre automatique certifié COSC et les fameuses pales de la turbine ! Edition limitée à 50 exemplaires. Compter 4.750 euros.
Ce n’est un secret pour personne que les deux éléments esthétiques clés de cette collection Perrelet Turbine Poker, présentée pour la première fois en 2009 avec sa technologie brevetée, sont la turbine en mouvement (non fonctionnelle) et ses sous-cadrans.

Au fil des années, de nombreux thèmes ont été explorés : des modèles dédiés au monde de l’aviation et de la course automobile, aux mangas japonais, aux tendances de la mode comme les motifs de camouflage ou les teintes arc-en-ciel, pour n’en citer que quelques-uns.

Après le succès (légitime) remporté ces derniers temps par le modèle Turbine Full Lum entièrement luminescent dans la nuit, Perrelet présente en ce mois de mai 2023, sa Perrelet Turbine Poker qui évoque cette fois-ci, l’univers de ce jeu de carte joué dans le monde entier.
Plus concrètement, cette Perrelet Turbine Poker propose un affichage avec aiguilles centrales des heures, des minutes et des secondes. Son cadran est composé de trois éléments qui distinguent les garde-temps Perrelet sur la scène horlogère : le sous-cadran, la turbine rotative à 12 pales et son anneau des heures caractéristique. Le tout protégé par un verre saphir antireflet.

Cette fois-ci, c’est donc le poker qui est mis à l’honneur avec la représentation d’un jeu de cartes : exactement celles de la quinte royale (la main la plus forte au poker) en rouge et noir, dans les couleurs de cœur et de pique. Un assortiment d’as, de rois, de dames, de valets et de 10, auquel s’ajoute une paire de 7 de cœur et de pique.

Par rapport aux séries précédentes la Turbine Poker, tout comme la Full Lum et l’Erotic d’ailleurs, adopte le boîtier redessiné et introduit avec la collection Turbine EVO en 2019.
Réalisé en acier PVD noir et étanche à 5 atm, il mesure 44 mm et présente des cornes redessinées, une lunette plate et lisse et les flancs cannelés caractéristiques du boîtier Perrelet. La couronne proéminente avec le logo de la maison permet une meilleure tenue lors de la mise à l’heure ou du remontage de la montre.

La turbine à 12 pales est protégée par un verre saphir. Elle est réalisée en aluminium anodisé noir avec cinq contrepoids en tungstène et tourne au rythme du mouvement du poignet. Plus la rotation est rapide, plus le sous-cadran est visible ; en l’occurrence, les cartes à jouer et la quinte royale.

Les index des heures, mélangés à des chiffres arabes pairs, ainsi que les aiguilles des heures et des minutes sont remplis de Superluminova blanc pour une lisibilité optimale dans toutes les conditions de lumière. L’aiguille rouge des secondes anime le cadran et s’accorde avec la couleur plus vive des représentations sur les sous-cadrans.
Cette montre est animée par le calibre automatique P-331-MH qui offre une réserve de marche de 42h. Ce mouvement est couvert par les prestigieuses certifications Chronofiable et COSC.

Le verre saphir du fond du boîtier révèle le grainage circulaire des ponts et la masse oscillante ajourée et rhodiée, ornée du logo de la maison.

La Perrelet Turbine Poker est livrée avec un bracelet en cuir noir impression alligator doublé de caoutchouc et dans un « coffret tactique » extrêmement résistant contenant un bracelet supplémentaire en caoutchouc noir et un outil de fixation.

Perrelet Turbine Carbon Racing

The Perrelet Turbine Carbon Racing honours the world of motorsport with several aesthetic elements. Red and white kerb-style accents and a turbine that resembles a rotating race car wheel pay tribute to the die-hard competitors who frequently engage in wheel-to-wheel battles. As Angus Davies reveals, this high-performance watch may have a low mass courtesy of its carbon fibre elements, but it is undoubtedly a horological heavyweight.
In the octane-rich world of motorsport, engine power, downforce, grip and weight are important considerations that directly influence on-track performance. Professional race teams expend many hours and colossal sums of money optimising each critical element of a car in the pursuit of championship points and podium glory.

In terms of most racing formulae, the cars must meet a minimum requirement, a rule all competing teams must adhere to. However, the best teams actually engineer the car to be underweight and then comply with the regulations by adding ballast. This may sound strange, but the position of the ballast can be optimised to ensure the best ‘balance’. A championship-winning race car has to be light and, for safety reasons, very strong.
One of the lightweight materials that is much loved by all teams is carbon fibre. It is ultralight and very strong. It’s also very stiff, once again, a useful attribute for a race car. Unfortunately, making carbon fibre components requires specialist know-how and its creation is labour intensive, two factors which heighten cost.

However, when championship points mean millions of Euros in terms of prize money, sponsorship and other forms of revenue, the eye-watering cost of a carbon fibre wing is probably of little consequence.

Invariably, for most watch buyers, cost is a consideration. A timepiece composed of various carbon fibre parts can often prove prohibitively expensive.

Perrelet has an impressive track record of crafting contemporary timepieces, housed in cases formed of polycarbonate and carbon fibre and, most notably, offering these watches at comparatively keen prices.
Founded in 1777, Perrelet is unequivocally a brand with much heritage. However, from the outset, the Maison has always been innovative. Abraham-Louis Perrelet masterminded the self-winding movement, employing a semi-circular weight for energising the mainspring, a system that is in widespread use today.

When the inaugural version of the Turbine burst onto the watch scene back in 2009, it looked unlike anything that had gone before. Inspired by Abraham-Louis Perrelet’s invention of 1777, the watch was automatic, employing a conventional oscillating mass positioned to the rear. However, a rotor or ‘turbine’, whirling with extraordinary alacrity, located centre stage, bestowed a dynamic, slightly hypnotic spectacle. The turbine did not energise the mainspring as this would inhibit its rotational speed. Its purpose was to deliver a unique visual effect.

Similar to a zoopraxiscope of the 19th century that fooled the eye into thinking a static object was in motion, the turbine fitted to the Perrelet delivers an animated spectacle in a highly imaginative way. Beneath the turbine’s blades, the detail on the lower dial comes into view and eventually, the turbine seemingly disappears as the rotational velocity reaches a near-dizzying speed. The allure of the turbine has led to the model’s impressive commercial success.

This year, Perrelet has combined the turbine with cutting-edge carbon fibre and polycarbonate, releasing the Turbine Carbon Black Edition, the Turbine Rainbow and now the new Perrelet Turbine Carbon Racing.
Carbon fibre is notoriously expensive, however, when it comes to watches, Perrelet has democratised the material. Indeed, with the advent of the company’s 2022 models, the Turbine Rainbow, Turbine Carbon Black Edition and now the Perrelet Turbine Carbon Racing, the Maison has brought the lightweight material within reach of a far larger audience.

Front of house, the 12 turbine blades rotate above a sea of blackness. However, while the lower dial eschews the vibrant hues found on some Turbine models, it masterfully plays with perspectives, creating the illusion of a racing tyre in motion.

But such cleverness does not mar practicality. Indeed, no one could accuse Perrelet of sacrificing day-to-day wearability on the altar of style. The fulsome hour and minute hands along with the bold hour markers, articulate the time perfectly.

Likewise, the low mass of the watch is not merely intended to confer bragging rights, it also heightens wearer comfort, a practical consideration for most watch buyers.

When a race car hurtles around a race circuit, everything is maximised for performance with scant thought for longevity. Cast your mind back to many motor races over the years and recall the sight of engines blowing up and trails of oil left in their wake.

The in-house, highly precise calibre P-331-MH has not only been engineered for performance alone but also with longevity in mind. It is certified Chronofiable and has been subjected to harsh treatment within a laboratory to ensure that it will continue to perform for years to come. And while this watch honours motor racing, it will clip far more apexes and see many more chequered flags than most raucous race cars. It seems with the Perrelet Turbine Carbon Racing, the Swiss marque has produced another winning performance.

Perrelet Turbine Rainbow Carbon

Perrelet is an interesting manufacturer known for the use of the automatic winding rotor on the dial side often to showcase animated dials. For summer 2022, they are releasing a new wristwatch in their iconic Turbile line with a multi-colour peek-a-boo dial and a case in carbon fibre. The Perrelet Turbine Rainbow retails for EUR 4,950 and is a limited edition of 50 pieces on pre-order from 15 August 2022.
Perrelet is a historical name, but one which is perhaps at the periphery of many collector’s vision. They trace their roots to Abraham Louis Perrelet who founded the firm in 1777, and is credited for being the inventor of the self winding watch. Perrelet even sold some of the watches to his contemporary A.L. Breguet in 1780, who improved upon the mechanism in his own version of the design, calling his watches “perpetuelles”, the French word for perpetual. The house claims to have been active throughout, but largely unknown until it returned to visibility in 1990 with a concept known as the dial side rotor. Perrelet produced the first double rotor model in 1995 in collaboration with Master Watchmaker Paul Gerber. The firm holds a patent for it. This watch featured a single rotor visible on the dial side, and a second one below. In 2004, the maison was acquired by the Festina Group, and with it the technical access to movement manufacture from sister company Soprod. The movement from one of the early Perrelet automatic winding movements, showing the full sized semi-circular rotor.
In 2009, Perrelet presented the Perrelet Turbine Rainbow . This was a commercial success, taking inspiration from aviation and basing the design of the dial side rotor on the jet engine turbine. The movement is still a double rotor, but the dial side is designed to look like a propeller of the jet engine’s turbine. Today’s novelty is an extension to the Turbine line. Now with the blades of the front rotor revealing and hiding the multi-coloured sub-dial below. This sub-dial is made up of many dots making patches of colour in red, orange, yellow, green, blue and violet. An effect which is vaguely similar to the works of American painter Jackson Pollock. The rainbow theme is carried on with the muti-colour indices – Arabic for even and bar for odd going from red to violet in a progression like they appear in a rainbow. The indices have SuperLumiNova applied in a matching colour. The hour and minute hands are white and the central seconds hand red. But also of interest is the case, which is in carbon fibre with a stainless steel bezel and case back in black PVD to match the dark tones of the carbon. The case is an updated design of the regular steel Turbine cases, and has a higher water resistance rating of 100m instead of 50m in the steel variants. And the movement is the new P-331-MH caliber, which is an in-house manufacture automatic movement. Perrelet embarked on this self sufficient model and manufactures the entire movement themselves, including the regulating organ. The movement not only has COSC certification, but have also passed the more stringent Chronofiable certification issued by Laboratory Dubois of La Chaux-de-Fonds. In terms of pricing, Perrelet has set the Turbine Rainbow to retail at EUR 4,950 which is a small premium over the black PVD steel version in the Turbine Regular which goes for EUR 4,580. Keeping in mind that the Turbine Rainbow has a carbon fibre case and is a limited edition of 50 pieces. Perrelet, the Swiss watchmaking manufacture renowned for its original creations with animated dials, is introducing a new wristwatch in the Turbine line for summer 2022. The iconic Turbine model has been renewed and adopts an innovative carbon fibre case with improved water-resistance to 10 atm / 100m instead of the traditional 5 atm.

Perrelet Turbine Rainbow Carbon fibre, a material never used before by Perrelet – except for the unique piece “Turbine Hope” conceived for the 9th edition of the Only Watch charity auction in 2021 – is now deployed on a series of new timepieces in the Turbine sporty line. The first model of these creations, with more to follow later this year, is named “Turbine Rainbow” and is a limited edition of 50 pieces. “Turbine Rainbow” features a high-tech case with a stainless steel bezel and case back with matte black PVD coating and a central body made of polycarbonate and carbon fibre. The properties of carbon fibre include its thermal insulation capacity, its resistance to chemical agents and temperature changes, and its extreme lightness; qualities that make it an ideal material for watchmaking.

The case, measuring 44 mm in diameter and 13.82 in thickness, has a sporty-chic look with its flat, smooth bezel and fluted case band – a signature feature of the brand. The sub-dial, a key component in the Turbine collection, is decorated with a new and exclusive motif. As the 12-blade black anodised aluminium propeller rotates, the beauty of the sub-dial is revealed.

With each movement of the wrist, the Turbine unveils details of the sub-dial, illustrating a different leitmotif every time. A wide range of motifs has appeared over the years, from animalier artwork and symbols of Japanese culture to camouflage patterns. The hallmark double rotor of the Turbine was patented in 2009, converting it into the iconic Perrelet model. For the new “Turbine Rainbow”, the brand’s creative team chose the colourful ‘rainbow’ theme. Countless small dots, like patches of colour in red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and violet are spread out against a ‘black canvas’ creating an engaging, abstract, multi-coloured pattern. The result is reminiscent of the “drip painting” technique used by the famous early 20th-century American painter, Paul Jackson Pollock.

The shadows of the rainbow, the fascinating optical phenomenon that occurs when sunlight passes through suspended drops of water after a thunderstorm, are reproduced in a precise sequence on the Arabic numerals and indices. The colours start with red at 12 o’clock, followed by orange at 2 o’clock and progress to yellow, green, blue, and finally violet. All of them glow in the dark with matching-coloured Super-LumiNova – a sophisticated touch that underlines Perrelet’s extreme attention to detail in the manufacture of its watches. The hour and minute hands are filled with white Super-LumiNova, while the central seconds hand is shiny red. “Turbine Rainbow” is powered by calibre P-331-MH, an in-house automatic movement, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and supplying 42 hours of power reserve. Having successfully undergone Chronofiable and COSC certification tests, the calibre guarantees high precision and reliability. The stainless steel case back, with black PDV coating, features a sapphire crystal porthole that allows a view of the circular graining on the main plate and the open-worked oscillating weight embellished with the Maison’s logo. The watch comes with a water-resistant black calfskin strap with a rubber lining and is delivered in a special “tactical box” accompanied by an additional rubber strap and a fastening tool.

“ Perrelet Turbine Rainbow ” will be available at prestigious authorised retailers worldwide from mid-August 2022. Those who do not have a shop close to home and live in EU countries or in the United States, can take advantage of the E-Commerce platform by logging onto Perrelet’s website. This is a recent service offered by the Maison, which always strives to do its best to meet the wishes of the brand’s many enthusiasts around the world.

Perrelet Turbine EVO Watches

Every watch brand loves to celebrate its anniversaries, and Perrelet is no different in this regard. For the 10-year anniversary of the release of its distinctive Turbine technology, Perrelet is celebrating with the release of the Turbine Evo — a fresh new design for the Perrelet catalog, sporting an in-house movement and retaining the same unique style we’ve come to expect from Perrelet.

Perrelet has released a large number of watches in the Turbine collection over the last decade, with the hallmark design cue of the series being the turbine-inspired dial, which spins around like a propeller, adding a fun, kinetic aspect to the dial. We have covered the history of the Turbine collection more in-depth in the past, and have gone hands-on with a few as well, and have found them to be a charismatic and interesting line. For the 10th anniversary, Perrelet has taken the same design aesthetic, propeller and all, and updated it for a broad new line. The Perrelet Turbine Evo watches all feature a 44mm-diameter case that is 13.82mm-thick, made out of stainless steel. Perrelet is offering the case in three different finishes: satin stainless steel, black PVD, and 4n gold PVD. To go with your choice of case finish, Perrelet is also offering the line in three dial colors, with red, “electric blue,” and gold, all with a black anodized aluminum propeller spinning on top of its respective color and color-matched seconds hand. Powering this new Evo line is the in-house caliber P-331-MH, an automatic COSC-certified movement beating at 28,800bph with 25 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve.
The overall style of the new Evo line is quite similar to the older generations of Turbine watches; Perrelet draws attention to a few specific design updates with the Evo line that you would be forgiven for not noticing right away. First up, the Evo line features a newly designed flat, smooth bezel, along with a now-fluted case finish along the sides of the case, and a new lug design. The crown is easier to grip, whereas older models saw the crown recessed quite far into the case. Around back, the Evo line features a sapphire caseback, with the steel caseback ring also decorated in a turbine pattern that aligns with the grooves on the side of the case (a nice touch). Also new here is the option for a bracelet, available in both a steel and gold finish to match the case. If steel bracelets aren’t your thing, Perrelet is also offering the Evo on an alligator-patterned calf leather strap, in a couple different shades.

While this Evo line doesn’t exactly reinvent the wheel (or propeller — sorry, I’ll show myself out) for Perrelet, it does continue to refine the popular design of the Turbine. We’ve definitely seen a lot of the Turbine design over the past decade, so I think it’s a positive move to revisit it and refresh the design moving forward. The concept behind the kinetic dial is rarely seen and provides for a fun visual aspect to the watch. This Evo line seems much more in line with something I would be likely to wear (especially the steel finish with the blue under-dial), with its more reserved and contemporary style compared to many of the older Turbine models, and there’s certainly plenty of options available in this Evo line, with multiple under-dial colors and case colors.

Breathing some fresh air into one of their more popular designs, the release of the Evo line brings a more contemporary, modern style to the Turbine design from Perrelet. With a variety of options and colors available here, the Evo line is seeking to capture a new generation of enthusiasts going into its second decade on the market. While the kinetic propeller and overall design won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, the Turbine has definitely had a cult following the last 10 years, and I expect that Perrelet will continue to see a faithful following for its fun design moving forward. Should you want to join that following, or continue an existing Turbine collection, prices on the Perrelet Turbine Evo collection range from CHF 4,380 to CHF 4,780, depending on configuration. More information available at https://www.highluxurystore.ru

Perrelet Turbine Diamond

Flower Petals and Diamonds and Rubies… What else would you want your watch to be made up of?

Perrelet Turbine Diamond set upon the unique double rotor?
Powered by the motions of your wrist?Perrelet, a seemingly quiet brand with TONS of potential, is going beyond print ads and marketing materials with this elegant video of the Perrelet Diamond Flower Rotor Watch. Which is a brilliant idea, especially for this model.

How else would a woman, or a man, be able to truly understand the beauty at play here?

Set with diamonds and rubies, the Perrelet Diamond Flower Rotor Watch defines its aesthetic both inside and out. While it’s lovely to think of the weight of a mechanic watch being cast in gold or platinum, and often with guilloche patterns mimicking the face of the dial, this Perrelet Diamond Flower Rotor Watch goes one step further with the double rotor rotating both inside and out.Designing this watch with a double rotor is unique, difficult to construct, and mesmerizing to witness. And is the perfect opportunity for more women to learn about mechanical watches and what makes them so desirable.

Featuring Perrelet’s own Automatic Caliber P-181 Double Rotor, this complication is exclusive to Perrelet. Employing two oscillating weights, to power the translation of time, Perrelet tweaked the visible rotor so that it would work in harmony with the wearer and be visible upon the dial. Looks so delicate – and cast with diamonds – to keep this watch in time. Further crafting the rotor to reflect the petals of a Lotus Flower is, to me, pure genius.

Out of all the flowers out there – and believe, there are many – Perrelet went with the Lotus Flower. I believe, given their history of manufacturing watches for women, that this was the perfect selection. As the Lotus Flower traditionally represents sexual purity – virtue – divine beauty – and most importantly – the expansion of the soul.

And as you watch this video, the Lotus Flower comes to represent so much more. This is the power of the Perrelet double rotor unfolding. Your knowledge of mechanical watches growing. The abundance of time spread out before you.

I’m always looking at watches and brands to see if they are actually identifying with their target audience. And I can say, with great certainty, that Perrelet did their research with this model. The flower petals stir something within most – whether it be the nature aspect or the harmonic balance – this elicits such an emotional response. Which, when you’re purchasing such a refined timepiece, it helps to represent more than just time.

Perrelet, with their LONG history, has always featured automatic movements in their entire ladies’ line, which is interesting and inspiring to note. Motivated by the desire to create distinct mechanical timepieces that can easily fit into every woman’s daily life, Perrelet seems to understand women inherently.The Perrelet Diamond Flower watch featured above is breathtaking, and is versatile not only in its manufacturing but its options. Solid stainless steel – solid rose gold – or two-tone (steel and gold). Whether it be the cream dial with diamonds, red indices, and rubies – or blue with diamonds and sapphires – or rose gold with a chocolate dial and diamonds – there is a model to fit your own color palette.

For such a classy watch, though, I would have expected greater options for the bracelet for the 2009 release. While I understand that a rubber strap can be deemed the most versatile, it is definitely not always the most appropriate. A watch like this, I would want to wear day and night. And for serious events, a rubber strap does not fit. I trust that it is top-notch, high-quality rubber – so good thing that a leather strap is available as an option.

There is already a lot of buzz going for this watch – so I am eager to see how else they expand upon this complication. And with a retail price starting approximately at $6,000 is truly a steal. For such a Joillerie Horlogerie piece to be priced so modestly is alluring, to say the least.

Perrelet Turbine First Class

Perrelet have added some new superb ladies and gents models to their First Class collection, each offering the added allure of a dial-side glimpse through to their mechanical inner workings.

Perrelet Turbine First Class Watchmaking history
Perrelet are the brand with the tagline “Inventors of the Automatic Watch”, included as a historical reference to Abraham-Louis Perrelet who is said to be the creator of the self-winding movement. In honour of his achievements Perrelet Turbine First Class also incorporate “1777”, the year he completed his revolutionary invention into their branding, yet despite having had two generations of widely acclaimed Master watchmakers at the helm – Abraham-Louis and his talented grandson, Louis-Frédéric, Perrelet eventually fell into an enforced slumber of more than 150 years, and even when new investors sought to resuscitate it, the reawakening was not without its difficulties.

In recent years the company has been successfully re-established and it is entirely appropriate that the brand who lay claim to the first watches “to wind themselves” has found that its regeneration has been thanks in part to their Turbine collection for which an innovative double rotor system provides a whirring spectacle. For those who enjoy the pleasure of a quieter dial, then the Perrelet First Class collection combines the signature styling and quality for which Perrelet are renowned, with the simplicity of a three-handed timekeeper.

Perrelet First Class Collection – Welcome to the first class
The new First Class Open Heart collection comprises of a selection of editions for both gents and lady clients, each of which displays evidence of its mechanical heartbeat through an opening on the dial which, due to the natural arrangement of the balance is off-set lending a slightly quirky feature to an otherwise flawless dial layout.The gents models are made from stainless steel and measure up at 42.5 mm across and are offered in three different dial shades – white, black and anthracite grey and with two versions – with Arabic numerals or with hour markers. The ladies models, which are also made from stainless steel, measure 35mm and are offered with a choice of black or white dial editions, each with Arabic numerals.

The pedigree of the calibre which can be glimpsed through the dial opening on these First Class Open Heart models cannot be disputed. Perrelet are known for their beautifully crafted movements and these pieces are powered by the automatic P-391 in-house calibre, which showcases the modern architecture of its openworked “Perrelet” rotor and its decorative finishing through a sapphire caseback. Understated styling is a feature of the First Class collection, and for these new pieces the uncluttered dial layout allows the splendid exposed balance to dominate.

Perrelet Weekend

Perrelet is expanding its PERRELET Weekend Collection with three new models available with blue or black dials. All models come with 39 mm round cases characterized by classic lines and a slim profile that is just 9.56 mm thick.Water-resistant to 50 metres / 165 feet, the new references are offered in stainless steel or in rose gold-coloured PVD-coated steel.

The elegant satin-brushed dials are enhanced with a sunray decoration emanating from the centre of the dial and completed by baton-style hands and applied hour indices (double at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock).

The Weekend 3-Hands is a classic three-hand watch indicating hours, minutes, central seconds and date at 3 o’clock.The Weekend 3-Hands Open Hearth is a variation of the previous model that offers a view of the balance wheel, the beating heart of the movement. For improved elegance, no date is displayed.The third novelty, the Perrelet Weekend GMT, displays the time in two different zones at a glance. Extremely clean in its layout and easy to read, this model indicates the home time by the combined use of a central 24-hour scale, composed of Arabic numerals and square markers, and a red-tipped hand. The various functions, including setting the GMT hand, are adjusted via the crown.The new timepieces are powered by in-house, automatic calibres beating at the frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour): P-321 for the 3-Hands, P-391 for the Open Heart, and P-401 for the GMT. Revealed through the transparent caseback, all movements guarantee a 42-hour power reserve.

The Weekend 3-Hands, Open Heart and GMT models can be matched to a black calfskin leather strap with pin buckle or to a 7-link bracelet in stainless steel alternating satin and polished finishes.

Perrelet Turbine Lab

It was a while that a new brand didn’t make it to the long list of brands available on Horbiter but, today, we would like to present you with the first of two articles devoted to Perrelet, a brand our Italian readers are probably not too familiar with, unlike our readers from the rest of Europe where the manufacturer is quite well-known. It is the story of Perrelet Turbine Lab that is particularly renowned, the company was funded in 1777 and it is one of the oldest watch-making manufacturing companies that also features a historic first in its pedigree, namely the patent of the automatic winding system. The brand is mostly known for its Perrelet Turbine Lab collection that has been re-edited in different versions over the years and that undeniably represents its point of reference. In the last few years, moreover, the brand has managed to transform itself into a real manufacture.The year 2016 has witnessed the birth of the Perrelet Lab collection, the third pillar of the brand’s product offer – among men’s watches – an aesthetically new collection that, for the first time, has been equipped with a cushion-shaped case. The base’s diameter measures 42mm by 42mm, the Perrelet Lab is a completely “business casual” timepiece that brings back some of the brand’s historical values and some of its more recent production features. The case is quite elaborate and particularly rich with details; the bezel is round, polished, and extremely thin, it rests on a base located underneath built in the shape of an octagonal prism where the longer sides form the case-middle, the decorations are machine-made so that they feature vertical slots in the shape of a rectangle. The “P.” logo located on the crown is quite remarkable.The lugs start off from the base of the case to then widen where they meet the strap. The dial has two parts: a central part with vertical lines and an outer part that is smooth and connected to a sapphire-glass ring that is needed to view the peripheral rotor’s movement. This is the most extreme version of the concept of rotor exposed to the side of the dial, one of Perrelet’s characteristics since the launch of the brand’s first watch with this feature in 1995 and a characteristic that has been virtually present across all the brand’s collections ever since. Among the pros of this solution is the possibility to leave the movement entirely on view, an additional element of immediate recognition of the manufacturer’s timepieces, a clear element of aesthetic distinction too like it was for years on the Turbine that has actually transformed it into a trademark. This particular option has “forced” the designers to suspend the applied indices that look as if they were fluctuating in the air despite being anchored to the central part of the dial.The in-house built P-411 caliber features a Cotes-de-Genève decoration on bridges, it is entirely in-house built and what I mean with this term is that Perrelet also crafts the balance springs of its movements. The rotor has been moved from its traditional location and inserted within the outer perimeter of the dial, thus giving the movement the formal neat look of a manual caliber. The P-411 caliber sports the standard characteristics of a three-hands within this price range, like an oscillating frequency of 4Hz and the typical 42 hours of maximum power reserve.This caliber definitely forms the basis for future evolutions, for the time being, however, it is a central three-hands with a date. The Perrelet Lab is available with a silver dial, anthrax, and black, the strap is made of leather and it features a folding clasp, the retail price totals 4,950 euro. It is a timepiece with very refined details with an original interpretation of the cushion-shaped case, a clear intention to craft an item that can be easily recognized as a Perrelet timepiece at first sight – including the “Peripheral” wording on the dial that might look like a relatively aesthetic detail but that actually isn’t -. The Perrelet Lab is a sober and sophisticated proposal, the manufacturer’s aim is to get hold of a different clientele than the Turbine’s by releasing a product that has been manufactured in-house from head to toe and strategically positioned under the 5,000-euro-psychological-threshold.

Perrelet Turbine tourbillon

The Perrelet Turbine tourbillon debuts a refined turbine carved out of noble sapphire. The transparent blades discreetly enliven the dial and unexpected reveal the brand-new tourbillon from Perrelet.Housed in a 44mm steel case treated with black PVD and water-resistance of 50m, “Turbine Rat” features an intriguing dial. Protected by a sapphire crystal, the animated dial is as eye-catching as it is hypnotising. One of the most distinctive features of this new model is the Perrelet Turbine tourbillon.
Perrelet owes its name to the 18th century watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet (who happens to be credited with inventing the modern automatic movement, among other things). The company was revived a few years ago and is now producing a variety of watches.

Despite the historically significant name (complete with “1777” written beneath it) featuring proudly on the front, there’s nothing retro or classic about the Turbine. At a glance, the Turbine seems to be quite a basic watch: three hands and no complications other than a gimmicky dial. However, there’s more to it than that. Let’s start with what’s underneath that turbine.

The origins for the turbine lie in Perrelet’s Double Rotor. The Double Rotor was designed (or at least patented) seventeen years ago and has become somewhat of a signature complication for the brand. The movement (Calibre P-181) features – as you may have already deduced from the name – two rotors: one at the back and an additional rotor on the front. For the first Turbine model (released in 2009) Perrelet used the Double Rotor principle, but replaced the front rotor with a turbine, consisting of twelve titanium blades. Later on they dissociated the turbine and the back rotor in order to make the effect more visually appealing.
If you get a chance to pick up a Turbine, you’ll immediately notice that this is by no means a mere toy. It feels very solid and has a certain vibe of quality about it. The watches are finished with great attention to detail and the same can be said for the movement, visible through the display back. I also quite like the way they’ve integrated the crown into the case design.Despite it’s relatively recent release date, Perrelet has already released many different versions. The standard models come in a choice of DLC-coated steel, titanium or even rose gold. There are also different colors available for the dial, hands and numbers.In addition to the regular models, there are a few special editions. First up, there’s the America (Ref. A4015/1, 777 pieces), a Turbine XL with stylistic references to the Stars and Stripes. Next there is the 007 License to Play, that has absolutely nothing to do with a certain British spy. Seriously, it hasn’t; it’s just a Turbine with some gold accents. Maybe the distinct lack of anything James Bond related is why the watch is now know as the Playing with Fire model (Ref. A8008/1, produced in a limited quantity of 888). It doesn’t contain actual fire, as that would be impractical and will ultimately effect the watch’s longevity. What is does have, is gold. If however, you find the Playing with Fire to be ‘not quite gold enough’, perhaps the Turbine XL Gold (limited to 77 pieces, Ref. A3030/1) will be to your taste. It features a rose gold case and gold turbine blades.For those who want a Turbine, but are put off by the lack of playing cards on the dial, the Turbine Poker is the obvious choice. They made three versions (Ref. A4018/1,2 or 3), each with different cards on the dial.

Last but not least, the Erotic (eight versions, limited to 88 pieces each; Ref. A4020/1, 2, 3 or 4 and Ref. A4021/1, 2, 3 or 4). For the Erotic, Perrelet took four hentai images and placed them underneath the turbine. This was meant as an homage to the tradition of watchmakers engraving erotic images on watches. The thing is, these images were usually engraved on the back of an otherwise perfectly normal looking timepiece so only the owner would know it was there. Not stuck on the front of an already very eye catching watch. Since the image is only visible when the blades are spinning, wearing a Turbine Erotic means you have no choice but to keep your arm perfectly still in situations where you might not want to be seen with a piece of hentai strapped to your wrist. Which I guess would be pretty much any situation.With the standard Turbine measuring in at a measly 44mm (which is still large compared to the impossibly small 41mm Turbine XS), I can understand why Perrelet felt the need to introduce the 50mm Turbine XL. Oddly enough, the bulky case shape and large diameter don’t make the Turbine XL uncomfortably big. I wouldn’t go as far as saying you barely notice the watch at all when you’re wearing it, but it’s really not as bad as the figures might suggest. That being said, walking around wearing a 50mm watch with a spinning turbine on the front will certainly attract some attention.

At Baselworld 2012, Perrelet announced the 47.5mm Turbine Diver. Based on the Turbine platform, it features eleven curved blades (like a propellor) spinning over a dial covered entirely in SuperLuminova. Another new feature is a rotating bezel, because let’s face it – the regular Turbine didn’t feature enough movable parts on the dial. Unfortunately, creating a new case capable of withstanding the pressure at 300m meant they’ve had to move the crown. It’s no longer subtly integrated into the case itself, but quite visible at the 10 ‘o clock position. I know it’s a bit odd criticizing a watch for having a protruding crown, but the way they hide the crown on the regular Turbine is one of its coolest features.

Personally, I’m a big fan of the Turbine models. That has a lot to do with the fact that underneath the spinning blades you’ll find a very serious watch. Given that in the past three years, they’ve released three sizes (available in different colors and materials), a diver and five limited editions I’m looking forward to what they’re going to come up with next.

Perrelet Turbine Pilot

Perrelet, the prestigious Swiss watchmaking house whose roots date back to 1777, is renowned for its unique representation of the automatic movement thanks to its patented Double Rotor and Turbine technology. Once again, Perrelet surprises watch enthusiasts with new interpretations of its “Turbine Pilot”, a collection inspired by the world of aviation.First launched in 2014, the “Turbine Pilot” line was the result of combining cutting-edge technology with artisanal know-how. By combining high-performance mechanics with features taken from the world of aviation, Perrelet’s qualified watchmakers have created a collection of aviator watches that exude a bold, unmistakable style.All these distinguishing features are manifest in the four latest “Perrelet Turbine Pilot replica” models, a collection that is constantly evolving to reflect the latest trends.Perrelet has always displayed a mastery of colour in its Turbine Technology timepieces. Three of the new “Turbine Pilot” protagonists feature bright, vivid colours like electric blue, red and yellow. A fourth version dons a camouflage rubber strap decorated with the classic mottled greens, browns and beige tones of this specific colouration pattern used for concealment.To undertake its mission as a pilot’s watch, “Turbine Pilot” combines the turbine to a circular slide rule. Aviation slide rules are analogue calculation tools and a vital support instrument for pilots before and during flight. Equipped with a series of concentric discs with different graduated scales, aviation slide rules perform various conversions of measures with great speed. Obviously, computers can perform all these operations, but having a slide rule on a watch engages the mind and invites us to interact with our wristwatch.The generous case size of 48mm and the characteristic fluting on the case middle are hallmark Turbine family features. Crafted in stainless steel with a black PVD coating, the case is water-resistant to depths of 5o metres and frames a complex, three-dimensional dial with its hypnotic turbine and blades which spin at the slightest movement of the wrist.As soon as the 12 black anodised aluminium blades are set in motion, the spectacle begins offering incredible optical effects and flashes of colour. As the blades complete their rotations, a second dial placed below the turbine and decorated with electric blue, red, yellow or beige stripes – depending on the model – materialises.To ensure optimal legibility in all light conditions, the indices and Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, which are applied on sapphire crystal disc above the turbine, are luminescent, as are the hands. On the electric blue and camouflage rubber strap models, for example, the hour hand is picked out in the same colour as the stripes below the blades. The peripheral slide rule scales on the flange and the tip of the central seconds hand on all four models also match the colour of the stripes. The bidirectional rotating bezel is activated by the crown at 3 o’clock, while the time is adjusted via the integrated crown at 9 o’clock.The beating heart of this compendium of innovative technology and contemporary design is Perrelet’s manufacture P-331-MH automatic calibre. Produced entirely in-house, the movement is chronometer-certified by COSC and offers 42 hours of autonomy. The transparent case back allows a view of the refined finishes and the open-worked rhodium-plated oscillating weight personalised with the logo of the House.To complete the package, the new “Turbine Pilot” models come with a bi-material strap (Rubber/Leather) with alligator pattern and deployant buckle with black PVD customised with the Perrelet logo. A fourth model with a rubber strap with camo pattern and black PVD pin buckle offers a more relaxed look.AVANTGARDE MECHANICS AND VIBRANT COLORS DISTINGUISH THE NEW “TURBINE PILOT” MODELS THAT JOIN PERRELET’S FAMED AVIATION-INSPIRED COLLECTION Perrelet, the prestigious Swiss watchmaking house whose roots date back to 1777, is renowned for its unique representation of the automatic movement thanks to its patented Double Rotor and Turbine technology. Once again, Perrelet surprises watch enthusiasts with new interpretations of its “Turbine Pilot”, a collection inspired by the world of aviation.

First launched in 2014, the “Turbine Pilot” line was the result of combining cutting-edge technology with artisanal know-how. By combining high-performance mechanics with features taken from the world of aviation, Perrelet’s qualified watchmakers have created a collection of aviator watches that exude a bold, unmistakable style. All these distinguishing features are manifest in the four latest “Turbine Pilot” models, a collection that is constantly evolving to reflect the latest trends.

Perrelet has always displayed a mastery of color in its Turbine Technology timepieces. Three of the new “Turbine Pilot” protagonists feature bright, vivid colors like electric blue, red and yellow. A fourth version dons a camouflage rubber strap decorated with the classic mottled greens, browns and beige tones of this specific coloration pattern used for concealment.To undertake its mission as a pilot’s watch, “Turbine Pilot” combines the turbine to a circular slide rule. Aviation slide rules are analogue calculation tools and a vital support instrument for pilots before and during flight. Equipped with a series of concentric discs with different graduated scales, aviation slide rules perform various conversions of measures with great speed. Obviously, computers can perform all these operations, but having a slide rule on a watch engages the mind and invites us to interact with our wristwatch. The generous case size of 48mm and the characteristic fluting on the case middle are hallmark Turbine family features. Crafted in stainless steel with a black PVD coating, the case is water-resistant to depths of 50 meters and frames a complex, three-dimensional dial with its hypnotic turbine and blades which spin at the slightest movement of the wrist.

As soon as the 12 black anodized aluminium blades are set in motion, the spectacle begins offering incredible optical effects and flashes of color. As the blades complete their rotations, a second dial placed below the turbine and decorated with electric blue, red, yellow or beige stripes – depending on the model – materials. To ensure optimal legibility in all light conditions, the indices and Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, which are applied on sapphire crystal disc above the turbine, are luminescent, as are the hands. On the electric blue and camouflage rubber strap models, for example, the hour hand is picked out in the same color as the stripes below the blades. The peripheral slide rule scales on the flange and the tip of the central seconds hand on all four models also match the color of the stripes. The bidirectional rotating bezel is activated by the crown at 3 o’clock, while the time is adjusted via the integrated crown at 9 o’clock. The beating heart of this compendium of innovative technology and contemporary design is Perrelet’s manufacture P-331-MH automatic caliber. Produced entirely in-house, the movement is chronometer-certified by COSC and offers 42 hours of autonomy. The transparent case back allows a view of the refined finishes and the open-worked rhodium-plated oscillating weight personalized with the logo of the House.

To complete the package, the new “Perrelet Turbine Pilot” models come with a bi-material strap (Rubber/Leather) with alligator pattern and deployant buckle with black PVD customized with the Perrelet logo. A fourth model with a rubber strap with camo pattern and black PVD pin buckle offers a more relaxed look.