I’ve been waiting to test this watch for a while. The first time I saw the NOMOS Zürich Weltzeit, it was on the wrist of a colleague over a year ago, and I was enthralled. The second time I saw it, I was in London for Salon QP, where I subsequently filmed this video and declared it “already in the running for the best of 2011.” Then, I saw it again at Basel this year, and for the first time, the watch was “official.” Still, official doesn’t mean available, and now, after spending one week with this Glashütte-bred dual-timezone model of modernity on my wrist, I can say that it is everything I though it would be. I’m talking about a great looking watch from a real watch company with a fantastic dual-timezone complication and a level of finishing well beyond its price tag.
Who is NOMOS? It’s a brand that likes to do things their own way. They make all of their movements in-house, and yet prices range from only $1,250 to $5,880. Their designs are purely bauhaus – you either love them or you don’t – and they were the first brand to use the Glashutte seal, before their neighbors across the road. NOMOS believes in sustainability, has produced a magazine and newspaper all internally, and has amassed an impressive modern art collection. They call it like they see it and their website is one of my favorites in the industry.
They also produce beautiful watches. The Zürich Weltzeit is the most complicated piece NOMOS has released, and honestly, the first one that really caught my eye. Their more traditional models are fantastic watches, though perhaps a little staid for my tastes (and my tastes are actually really staid). But the Zürich Weltzeit is something new for NOMOS.
The watch is sized at 39.9mm and features one of my absolute favorite complications in the world of horology, a second time zone. If one looks at the watch, you’ll see a city ring with 24 city names on it. You’ll also see a funny looking German word at 3 o’clock that you may not understand. The watch, despite its minimalist design, looks fairly complicated. The thing is, it’s not.
The Zürich Weltzeit Allows For The Simultaneous Viewing Of Two Unique Time Zones The word “Heimat” translates roughly to “Homeland” and it is this mini-disc at 3 o’clock that grounds the wearer in his or her home time. No matter what time zone the main dial displays, the Heimat always shows what time it is where you’ll resting your head at the end of the day, proverbially speaking. The Zürich Weltzeit Allows For The Simultaneous Viewing Of Two Unique Time Zones The word “Heimat” translates roughly to “Homeland” and it is this mini-disc at 3 o’clock that grounds the wearer in his or her home time. No matter what time zone the main dial displays, the Heimat always shows what time it is where you’ll resting your head at the end of the day, proverbially speaking. “Heimat” loosely translate to “homeland”So, you see your home time at 3 o’clock, right? So then what do the big hands show you? Well, that is your local time zone. There are 24 cities shown on this disc slightly recessed from the main dial, each representing a time zone. To change time zones, you simply press the button at 2 o’clock to adance both the city disc and the large hour hound. Again, it sounds complicated, but it’s really not. Your local time zone is displayed at 12 o’clock, your local time via the main hour hand, and your home time at 3 o’clock. Watch the video below to see how easy it is to advance time zones on this NOMOS. So, in the case of the video above, we are taking the world’s fastest flight from Brazil to Japan. In the beginning, our local time displays 10:56 (watch set to Fernando de Noronha), our home time is set to Eastern Standard Time (we’re based in NYC, after all) showing 7:56AM, and by the end of the video, we are landing in Tokyo, displaying 9:56.
Advancing the time zone is a really satisfying experience both tactically and visually. The city disc aligns to the red arrow at 12 o’clock perfectly each time, and the click of the button at 2 o’clock is very smooth. But, one important point must be made about what this watch is not.
What this watch is not is a true world-timer. A world-timer, like the impressive new one from Vacheron Constantin, shows the wearer the time of day in at least 24 different time zones simultaneously. The NOMOS only shows the time of day in two time zones simultaneously, but gives the impression of 24. This isn’t a bad thing, but most people, when looking at the Zürich Weltzeit assume it can display 24 time zones, and it simply can not. This is really a GMT watch that happens to have a 24-hour city ring. Still, it is the implementation of the city ring that gives this watch its charm. As mentioned above, all NOMOS watches feature true in-house calibers. By that, I don’t mean an ETA 2892 completely reworked in Glashutte, but rather a concretely manufacture movement that is all their own. Plates and screws are built by NOMOS at its factory. They maintain a five person team to develop movements year-round, and they believe in a level of aesthetics to their movements that is seldom seen in this price range. The brass plates are rhodium finished with diagonal Glashütte striping while other components feature circular graining. They use fire-red rubies for jewel bearings and palette stones, and bright blue steel screws that are hardened in their own kiln at 300° Celsius.
The NOMOS xi caliber is a true in-houseThe Zürich Weltzeit is built on the NOMOS ξ (Xi) caliber, the most complex the brand has built to date. The second time zone function required an addition 46 parts on top of their existing automatic movement, 23 of them were newly invented for this watch. It also required a new case the allowed for both the time zone advancement button and home time adjuster. The caliber is 5.6mm thick and has a power reserve of ~42 hours. It is adjusted to six positions and while NOMOS does not submit their movements to COSC, they would likely pass (based on the Chronoscope ticket included with our test watch) The NOMOS xi caliber is a true in-houseThe Zürich Weltzeit is built on the NOMOS ξ (Xi) caliber, the most complex the brand has built to date. The second time zone function required an addition 46 parts on top of their existing automatic movement, 23 of them were newly invented for this watch. It also required a new case the allowed for both the time zone advancement button and home time adjuster. The caliber is 5.6mm thick and has a power reserve of ~42 hours. It is adjusted to six positions and while NOMOS does not submit their movements to COSC, they would likely pass (based on the Chronoscope ticket included with our test watch)
The polished steel bezel and multi-tiered dial are very sleek on this watch. Though, with the hour markers small and sitting outside the city ring, the watch can be slightly difficult to read at a glance. You can see below that there is considerable space between the hour hand and the hour markers. I do suspect things would get easier with time as one becomes more accustomed to the configuration. Still, excellent attention has been paid to the “little” things on this such, such as the fantastic circular graining on the seconds register.
The NOMOS Zürich Weltzeit is not going to win you a pissing contest at the bank – I can promise you your Managing Director won’t know, or care, what it is. It’s not going to get you attention when you’re at a bar in Miami – turn to Hublot for that. It will not say “I’ve Arrived” the way so many people look for with a watch in this price range. If you’re looking for something that can do all this, buy a Rolex, a decent vintage Sub will cost you the same as this NOMOS.
All watches from NOMOS, but this one in particular, are for someone not looking for accolades, but rather subtle excellence in both form and function, and a watch that will please you and you alone each time you glance down at it. This watch is the type of watch that should be worn by a man who travels the world and thinks nothing of it; a man who is at home in Zurich, Hong Kong, Chicago, and Santiago, and knows the best places to eat in each without having to use his iPhone. It was made for the type of person who reads Monocle Magazine not to impress people on the train, but who genuinely cares about stalwarts of sustainable design in an obscure Scandinavian city. This watch is for a man who appreciates that fact that this watch features an in-house manufacture movement with hand-finishing, but doesn’t need everyone around him to know how much he paid for it. The NOMOS is a watch for a man who knew exactly who Nick Horween was before he saw that this watch came on Horween leather. The NOMOS Zürich Weltzeit is the most expensive watch the brand has made to date. In the US, it will retail for $5,880. That is is a lot of money for a NOMOS, but not a lot of money for the complication and finish. The watch, like the brand itself, is quirky and excellent. It represents true fine watchmaking at an affordable price with little sacrifice. You won’t see these watches every day, which is a great thing – they are sold in only five retailers in the United States (all listed below).
NOMOS is, in my opinion, the leader of the democratization of haute horology and one of the brands to keep an eye on over the coming years. Its Zürich Weltzeit is its magnum opus so far – despite the watch with all its German efficiencies lacking true sex appeal – if you are a fan of the watch aesthetically, you’ll be hard-pressed to find better value out there today. This is a real watch guy’s watch with a dose of international chic, and I absolutely love it.