A complex, delicate device that aims at counteracting the negative effects of gravity on the regulating organ of a watch (and an invention of Genius A.L. Breguet), the tourbillon is often considered one of the grails of watchmaking, together with the perpetual calendar or the rattrapante chronograph. Being a complex assembly that requires skills and patience, it is often a dream that only a few can access. However, a few brands have decided to bring the spectacle of this tiny device to the wrist of more watch enthusiasts, with a more accessible price. CODE41, a young brand known for its disruptive strategy, unveils a watch with a tourbillon movement developed, designed and assembled entirely in Switzerland, priced below the 10k mark. Meet the new CODE41 T360 Tourbillon.
Rare are the watches equipped with a tourbillon (at least high-quality, Swiss- or German-made watches) that come at a (relatively speaking) accessible price tag. In reality, a tourbillon manufactured by an established watchmaker often requires a solid 5-digit amount, making it a dream that will never come true for the masses. However, CODE41 is known for shaking things a bit, with a rather novel way to treat mechanical watchmaking. Founded by Claudio D’Amore, CODE41 is all about involving the public in all of its creations. The first CODE41 project resulted in a mechanical wristwatch that raised over half a million Swiss francs. The watches made by the brand are following the principles of the TTO label, standing for Total Transparency on Origin. And following a series of watches all equipped with unique movements, such as the mighty Mecascape Sublimation One, it’s time for the brand to bring its own take on the tourbillon.
As always with this young brand, the community initiates the development of each new project. And for its latest creation, the tourbillon won the votes. Each key step has been subject to a vote submitted to the hundreds of thousands of members of the community: the choice of the type of tourbillon, the design of the case and the colours selected for the final collection. The result is the present watch, the CODE41 T360 Tourbillon. And, as you’ve come to expect from the brand, the price strategy is quite aggressive, as the watch is positioned below the all-important 10k mark, despite having a proprietary movement.
The idea was once again to bring a complication often inaccessible to most now available to as many as possible. This would have easily been possible by simply outsourcing the movement from an Asian source. But that’s not what CODE41 and its TTO label stand for. The movement you can see in this watch has indeed been designed and assembled entirely in Switzerland, with the list of the partners involved in the project clearly exposed on the brand’s website – it includes well-known Swiss companies such as Atokalpa (Balance wheel, lever escapement, escape wheel), KIF (shock absorber), BCP Tourbillon (movement design), or Orimpex (Assembly of the movement and casing).
The result of this project is a movement, designed with the brand’s usual codes in mind – openworked, sharp bridges – and equipped with a tourbillon regulator on full display. This hand-wound calibre features a large barrel delivering 105 hours of power reserve (over 4 days), with a classic one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock, beating at a 3Hz frequency. All the parts are suspended between graphic, sharp and faceted bridges, giving a contemporary, technical touch to the T360 Tourbillon watch. This movement is fine-tuned in 5 positions and adjusted to an accuracy of -5/+5 seconds per day.
The other idea of CODE41 with its new T360 Tourbillon was to offer this usually delicate complication within a watch made for daily use. As such, the cases are meant to be modern, sporty and resistant. 42mm in diameter, resistance, lightness and comfort are obtained by the use of grade 5 titanium, in both options offered by the brand. Next to the classic case that has been used in all of the brand’s creations, the so-called NativeDNA case, CODE41 has developed in conjunction with its movement a new case named Stratom. A revamped squared case, with 4 corner-placed screws, it offers an even more technical look to the collection, perfectly in line with the contemporary look of the movement.
Finally, the CODE41 T360 Tourbillon will be offered with a customization program. In addition to the choice of case (NativeDNA or Stratom), future owners will be able to choose between multiple dial colours (5 colour combinations for the dial and hands) as well as a selection of leather or rubber straps, or steel bracelets (all 24mm in width). In total, over 200 possible combinations are available. In addition, the T360 Tourbillon is equipped with an interchangeability system.
Category: Code41 Watch
Code41 T360 Tourbillon Stratom
When John Arnold first envisioned the tourbillon at the close of the 18th century, bringing the revolutionary new movement to life with friend and fellow watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, never in his most fevered dreams could he have imagined a watch like the CODE41 T360 Tourbillon. Combining the brand’s signature ultra-modern styling, skeletonization, and use of cutting-edge materials, the T360 Tourbillon takes this typically staid and dressy complication into the modern era in a package meant for everyday wear.
CODE41’s approach to watchmaking is the antithesis of the traditional Swiss model, with an emphasis on transparency and democratic decision-making in the development of new watches. Silence and obfuscation is rampant in the watch industry, which is why CODE41’s commitment to Total Transparency of Origin (TTO) is so refreshing. With TTO, CODE41 provides a breakdown of every component in the watch, including where it was manufactured and what it cost. The result is that you, the consumer, know exactly what you’re paying for, with the markup on the cost of manufacture clear to see and no need to guess as to how “Swiss” your Swiss Made watch truly is.
Using a community-driven approach, CODE41 involves customers in everything from the design process to manufacturing and logistics. This go-round, the message was clear — it was time to make a tourbillon. In doing so, the CODE41 community wanted to ensure that the design language and style CODE41 has cultivated remains the focal point, the watch includes plenty of customization options, and that the price remains as accessible as possible. 192 design variations, more than 12,500 votes cast, and over 400 comments from the CODE41 community later, and the concept for the T360 Tourbillon was born.
To develop the T360 Tourbillon, CODE41 partnered with Swiss watchmakers and artisans to create a 100% Swiss movement. Consisting of 141 components and 19 jewels, the manual-winding tourbillon movement beats at 21.6kbph and features an outstanding 105 hours of power reserve. The movement is then adjusted in five positions to maintain an accuracy of +/- 5 seconds/day.
If you’re going to develop a tourbillon, you need to put it on full display. Luckily, with CODE41’s extensive experience with skeletonization, that wasn’t an issue. Positioned at 6 o’clock with an angular and open-worked cantilever, the tourbillon makes a full rotation within its cage every 60 seconds. By placing the tourbillon within a skeletonized dial, the tourbillon feels like a natural extension of the CODE41 design language, the beauty of micro-engineering and Old World artisanship blending harmoniously.
CODE41 is offering the T360 Tourbillon in two 42mm case options: NativeDNA and Stratom. CODE41 has been producing the NativeDNA case since 2016 and its angular lines and dimensionality have become a hallmark of the brand. Made from Grade 5 titanium, the case is as light as it is strong. The chambered construction and wide, distinctive lugs are unabashedly modern, yet comfort and wearability remain core to the design.
With the T360 Tourbillon, CODE41 is also introducing a new case option. Crafted from the same Grade 5 titanium as the NativeDNA case, the Stratom case has a barrel shape and a sportier visage with exposed screws and a multi-level design. With a short lug-to-lug distance and curves to match your wrist, the Stratom is as ergonomic as it is striking.
Having a community of watch enthusiasts help guide the direction of the brand has brought the CODE41 T360 Tourbillon to life, but every community is comprised of individuals with their own unique tastes and preference. Along with offering your choice of case, CODE41 is also offering five color combinations for the dial and hands, the option of seconds on the bridge of the tourbillon cage, and your choice of leather, rubber, and steel straps. Whether you opt for a subtle grey with pops of orange or the full titanium rainbow dial, there’s a model for the most reserved or extravagant among us.
CODE41 hasn’t skimped on any details necessary for a watch meant to be worn daily. The case features 100m of water resistance and is equipped with anti-reflective coated sapphire crystals front and back. In addition, the hands, indices, and bridge of the tourbillon cage feature Super-LumiNova for nighttime visibility. Plus, at just 57-68g without strap (depending on whether you chose the NativeDNA or Stratom case), the T360 Tourbillon will be easy to wear in any situation.
Another major requirement in creating the CODE41 T360 Tourbillon was price accessibility. Typically, tourbillons are reserved for watches starting in the tens of thousands of dollars. With the T360, CODE41 T360 Tourbillon was determined to stay under the $10,000 barrier. With a starting price of $9,598 USD, the brand has done just that. Though by no means inexpensive, the hand-working and craft required to produce a high-end tourbillon come at a cost ($3,048 for the movement, to be exact, as you can find in the cost breakdown for each component). However, with a total markup of just over 2X, the total cost of the T360 Tourbillon is many times lower than what you would find from any major brand.
Code41 ANOMALY T4
Code41 ANOMALY T4 hat sich in den letzten Jahren merkbar gewandelt: Die im Schweizer Lausanne ansässige Uhrenmarke, die mit den Zutaten der Kosten- und Herkunftstransparenz, eigenständig-modernen Designs und einer Prise Swiss Made-Kritik groß geworden ist, konzentrierte sich in den letzten Jahren zunehmend auf technisch und/oder optische Besonderheiten wie beispielsweise einen peripheren Aufzugsrotor oder ein Gehäuse (!) aus Saphirglas. Mit Erfolg: Die CODE41-Vorbestellerkampagnen sind stets stark frequentiert, die Umsätze pro Kampagne bewegen sich im Millionenbereich.
Besonderheiten wie die genannten haben aber natürlich auch einen Einfluss auf die Preise (die CODE41 damals wie heute transparent über eine Kostenaufstellung kommuniziert). Die eher günstige Einstands-Modellreihe Anomaly, mit der CODE41 im Rahmen einer Kickstarter-Kampagne anno 2017 ein erstes Ausrufezeichen setzte (knapp 900 Unterstützer bzw. fast 550.000 CHF), wurde hingegen in den letzten Jahren etwas stiefmütterlich behandelt. Das soll sich nun Mitte 2022 mit einer Neuauflage in Form der CODE41 Anomaly-T4 ändern…
Anders als die CODE41 Anomaly Evolution kommt die neue Anomaly-T4 in einer skelettierten Optik – ein Merkmal, das die futuristisch-moderne Designsprache von CODE41 deutlich besser unterstreicht und sich nahtlos in die anderen Modellreihen wie X41, DAY41 oder NB24 einreiht. Ziemlich beeindruckend ist dabei die Tiefe des Zifferblattes: Die außen liegende Minuterie geht „über Eck“ in eine Schicht über, die ein über das gesamte Zifferblatt spannendes „X“ beherbergt. Noch eine Etage tiefer kann man einen Blick auf die Mechanik des Automatikkalibers erhaschen.
Das „X“ ist bei allen Varianten sehr dezent und fügt sich stimmig in das Gesamtbild des Zifferblattes ein. Wer es etwas auffälliger mag, der darf auf die Code41 ANOMALY T4 -Variante mit dunkel-orange lackiertem „X“ auf kontrastreichem Schwarz samt passendem R45-Kautschukband aus flexiblem, staubabweisendem und geruchsneutralen FKM schielen:
Durch die Skelettierung, die Einzug in die neue Anomaly-T4 erhalten hat, kommt das SW200-1 S a von der Schweizer Sellita SA zum Vorschein. Gut: Das bewährte und robuste Kaliber, das baugleich mit dem ETA 2824-2 ist, kommt in der höherwertigeren Qualitätsstufe Elaboré und mit der besseren Incabloc-Stoßsicherung (statt Novodiac). Das Werk wird in drei Lagen feinreguliert. Der mittlere Gang beträgt 7 ±7 Sekunden pro Tag. Ein Sichtfenster aus Saphir erlaubt auch vom Gehäuseboden aus den Blick auf das Kaliber.
Das Gehäuse der Anomaly-T4 entspricht dem modernen Design früherer Anomaly-Modelle: bekannte Merkmale wie die Flanke mit einer schmalen Vertiefung (wodurch das Gehäuse so wirkt, als sei es zweiteilig) oder die Sechskantschrauben an den Hörnern, die das Band fixieren, sind wieder mit an Bord. Außerdem behält Code41 ANOMALY T4 die Verbesserungen, die schon bei der Anomaly Evolution Einzug erhalten haben, bei – darunter insbesondere eine Erhöhung der Wasserdichtigkeit auf 10 bar (zum Schwimmen geeignet), eine mit 11,2 mm angenehm flache und „Hemdärmel-freundliche“ Gehäusehöhe sowie der bereits erwähnte transparente Gehäuseboden, der den Blick auf die Mechanik freigibt.
Neu ist, dass das Gehäuse der Anomaly-T4 aus 316L-Edelstahl in der Güte 4441 besteht. Es handelt sich dabei um um austenitischen Stahl, der eine besondere Gefügestruktur aufweist und dadurch eine höhere Beständigkeit gegen aggressive Umgebungsbedingungen und insbesondere eine Resistenz gegenüber Korrosion (Rost) aufweist. 316L-Edelstahl 4441 ist darüber hinaus biokompatibel (keine Nickelausscheidungen) und wird daher für medizinische Anwendungen eingesetzt (z.B. chirurgische Implantate, Prothesen, Kirschner Drähte).
Der Edelstahl des Gehäuses ist außerdem zu 100% recycelt. Das ist nicht wirklich neu im Bereich Uhren, unterstreicht aber die Tendenz, dass Uhrenhersteller zunehmend auf Nachhaltigkeit setzen – kein Wunder mit Blick auf ein paar Statistiken: Knapp die Hälfte der deutschen Verbraucher gibt für nachhaltige Produkte, die wiederverwendbar oder recyclebar sind, gerne mehr aus. Eine große Mehrheit von 85 Prozent ist außerdem der Meinung, dass es wichtig ist, Produkte gezielt so zu konzipieren, dass sie wiederverwertet oder recycelt werden können (sogenanntes Design for Recycling).
Insofern geht Code41 ANOMALY T4 mit dem Recycling-Gehäuse sinnvollerweise mit der Zeit, wenngleich man natürlich durchaus kritisch einwenden darf, dass man sicherlich nicht die Welt rettet, wenn man eine Uhr mit ein paar hundert Gramm Recycling-Stahl kauft (im Jahre 2019 wurden weltweit insgesamt über 52 Millionen Tonnen Edelstahl produziert).
Auf jeden Fall kann man aber festhalten, dass CODE41 nicht einfach nur als Trittbrettfahrer im Bereich nachhaltiger Uhren unterwegs ist, sondern sich bei der Kooperationspartnerwahl offenbar eine Menge Gedanken gemacht hat: Hinter dem recycelten Stahl der CODE41 Anomaly-T4 steckt nämlich die Panatere SA. Das immerhin rund 40 Mitarbeiter große Unternehmen aus dem Schweizer Saignelégier, das auch Teil der Kreislaufwirtschaftsvereinigung Circular Economy Switzerland ist, sammelt Edelstahlspäne bei Unternehmen aus der Umgebung ein, die beispielsweise während des Fräsens von Werkstücken entstehen. Panatere ist vor allem bei Uhrenherstellern oder Herstellern von medizinischem Zubehör unterwegs, die im Umkreis von Saignelégier tätig sind. Die eingesammelten Späne werden anschließend in einem solarbetriebenen Ofen eingeschmolzen, der in Zusammenarbeit mit der Eidgenössischen Technischen Hochschule in Lausanne entwickelt wurde und der weltweit erste solarbetriebene Industrieofen ist, der Stahl ohne Brennstoff oder Strom schmelzen kann. Mit Blick auf diesen Prozess, der auch noch etwas ausführlicher in der New York Times beschrieben wird, braucht man keinen Rechenschieber aus dem Keller zu holen, um festzustellen, dass der CO2-Fußabdruck von diesem recycelten Edelstahl, der bei der CODE41 Anomaly-T4 zum Einsatz kommt, ein Bruchteil von dem Edelstahl beträgt, der im Bereich Uhren häufig aus der fast 10.000 Kilometer entfernten chinesischen Millionenmetropole Shenzhen importiert wird.
CODE41-typisch wickeln die Schweizer die neue Code41 ANOMALY T4 wieder über eine Vorbestellerkampagne ab, die am 29. Juni 2022 um 15 Uhr MEZ startet. Die Preise starten bei 1488€ (inklusive Steuern wohlgemerkt, die übernimmt CODE41) – das ist merkbar teurer als die allererste Anomaly, damals bei Einführung der Marke anno 2017. Dabei sollte man aber berücksichtigen, dass das Zifferblatt der Anomaly-T4 deutlich aufwendiger verarbeitet ist, der Recycling-Ansatz des Kooperationsunternehmens Panatere konsequent und durchdacht ist und dass die allgemeinen Preissteigerungstendenzen auch an CODE41 nicht spurlos vorbeigehen (viele Uhrenhersteller kämpfen damit, überhaupt Komponenten geliefert zu bekommen).
Code41 Anomaly-01
Impressive, magnificent, mysterious… if the Code41 Anomaly-01 watch industry had its way we’d all think of the average automatic timepiece as some esoteric, near-magical artefact that costs the world to own. The thing is, the industry as a whole has more in common with the Wizard of Oz than anything genuinely miraculous.
Yet once you’ve peeked behind the curtain just a little bit, it’s hard to forget what you’ve seen and to realise that, if the watch world were just a little more transparent, you might start wondering why your precious wrist candy actually costs so much. The guys behind CODE41 certainly did, and their discoveries spurred them to create the most transparent watch company in the world.
This being the watch world I have to clarify that I don’t mean a collection of full sapphire cases here. The aim of Lausanne-based Code41 Anomaly-01 watch is to offer high-quality mechanical watches at a fair price, while revealing precisely where that money goes. It’s a tall order, trying to upset as big and powerful a ship as the watch industry, but so far they’ve hit it like a torpedo.
After a successful crowdfunding campaign in 2016, the first CODE41 models hit on 8 November 2017 – an impressive collection, titled ANOMALY-01, of masculine yet elegant automatic watches at extremely affordable price points. So far, so good, though not exactly revolutionary. That came in 2018 with the inception of Project X41.
Sure it sounds like a UFO crash site, but the ideas behind Project X41 are far less outlandish than that. In fact, those ideas are positively down to earth – if you don’t intimately know the watch world.
Code41 Anomaly-01 watch wanted to create a watch where telling the time was just a pretext to highlight the finest tenets of true watchmaking. After all, anything can tell the time; true horology goes well beyond that.
For Project X41 that meant an in-house, skeletonised movement; unique dial architecture; an exclusive peripheral rotor and the finest watchmaking materials. That’s a tall order for any big watchmaker; for a microbrand like CODE41, it’s bordering insanity. Yet that’s not all.
I’ve seen similar-looking watches go for upwards of £15,000 and be considered good value for money. Often that involves paying for the brand name, sure, but even then skeletonised manufacture movements aren’t exactly cheap. The Project X41 cost just £5,390.
That sounds too good to be true, right? You’d be right to be sceptical nine times out of ten. This though is the one exception. If you want proof, it’s there in writing. Go onto any product page on the CODE41 website and you can easily find the company’s ethos of “total transparency”, with each major part of the watch listed with its cost price and country of origin.
The costs are actually similar to what any fine watch would be; the difference is what CODE41 does with it afterwards. There are minimal mark-ups compared to the brands that would position themselves in the luxury sector and there’s no traditional distribution, cutting overheads and therefore the mark-ups retailers would need. The result is a price that better reflects how much the watch is actually worth, without paying for billboard adverts, TV slots and A-list celebrity sponsorships.
It’s a peek behind the curtain that will seriously get you thinking about how much you’re willing to pay for your dream watch. I’m not saying you shouldn’t invest more for a timepiece you feel you need in your life (I certainly have, plenty of times), but just that you don’t necessarily need to.
Still, all this would be a moot discussion if the end result was hideous. Fortunately, Project X41 looks the part. The skeletonised dial is magnificent, held together by big, architectural bridges that stop it getting too much for the eyes to handle. Flip the watch over and it’s just as “X”-ceptional (sorry). The reverse is dominated by X-shaped bridges, flawlessly machined and finished and, thanks to the peripheral rotor, perfectly visible too.
Visually that’s a small concession, but it means a huge amount for the price, clocking in at £1,075 for the starting model. The finishing and quality are as high as you would expect, but just in a more streamlined creation.
As I said at the beginning, the watch industry is full of mystery and wreathed in esoteric terminology like smoke. For some of us, that’s OK, it’s all part of the magic show. However, others can’t rest until they’ve discovered those tricks for themselves. For those insatiable shatters of the grand illusion, they’ll find a kindred spirit in CODE41.
Code41 Anomaly-02
I’m back with more good stuff from Code41 Anomaly-02 , a watch microbrand that I have grown to love simply because they make really cool looking and well built watches. I have already taken a close look at the Anomaly 01 on this blog, so much of this review will be in comparison to that model. Now, why would I review a watch so similar to one I have already reviewed. Well, it’s not as similar as you would expect, and some might call the Anomaly 01 a risky design, while this is there more sober and dressier model. And with that in mind, I believe it deserves its own review!
I have already described the very satisfying unboxing of a CODE41 watch in the other review, yet this one had me one the edge of my seat once more. Same packaging, same feel, the same satisfaction.
The Anomaly 02 has the same weight and case as the other model, but with a different dial and a different strap (i wanted to try their leather straps this time). And even though I am used to wearing the 01 model, i couldn’t help myself examining the case and its cool details.
When i see a watch for the first time, I can’t help but look for mistakes and flaws, whether it’s misaligned dial, flaws in the metal finishes, residue on the hands, grainy or incomplete printing and lume, misaligned crown, bad AR coating and misaligned date wheel. This watch has none of these flaws! Even my Breitling Headwind has a slightly misaligned bezel!
The only small disappoint i have with the anomaly 02, and the 01, is the longevity of the lume. But since they are dressy/sporty watches, I can forgive them for that.
Like the 01 model, the Anomaly 02 is held together by the same beautiful watch case. Slightly 70s inspired with a sporty, industrial and futuristic touch. They did a great job playing around the brushed and polished metal finishes. I forgot to mention this in my last review, but the case also has a beat blasted finish on the underside of the case (not case back) and in the engraved stripe between the lugs.
The finished feels and looks great, the angled edges of the case are clean, but not too sharp or dull, giving your finger something truly satisfying to brush over.
I love the spacers at the end of the lugs, making sure the strap isn’t too wide while keeping a nice straight line from the side of the case and down to the lugs. The case’s shape actually gives the illusion that it isn’t a straight line, but sure enough, it is!
The crown features the same delightful triangular pattern, that doesn’t really grip your fingers well, but sure looks great. Perhaps it is because that part of the crown is polished. A polished beveled edge leads you to the flat, circular brushed side of the crown where a deeply engraved CODE41 logo sits proudly.
The sapphire crystal usually doesn’t get its own heading, but they Anomaly 02’s crystal really deserves it. It’s big, flat and reveals a beveled edge that plays with the light when is rotated. It sits slightly above the bezel, but the beveled edge makes sure it’s not just a block cylinder sticking up from the watch.
But that is just a small part of the reason why I am so satisfied with the crystal. The AR coating on this bad boy is very well done, which is very important when you have such a big and low contrast dial! Don’t get me wrong, I have seen many watches in this price rangewith the same quality of AR coating, but it isn’t always the case!
CODE41 kept many of the design elements from the 01 model for the Code41 Anomaly-02 , although this dial is much more clean. The outer ring has the same lozenge shaped cut-outs and the hour and minute hands are also the same. Everything else is different from their model, but they still kept the design consistent and the same level of precision and quality brushed finish. Everything is perfectly centered and every element is aligned with the lume indices.
The middle of the dial has a cool engraved pattern, made with tiny lozenges, that creates a nice contrast by reflecting light. One downside to that is that when you look straight at the watch, in certain light condition, it reflects so much light that the hands becomes slightly harder to see. Luckily, the lume on the hands makes sure you can still tell the time and you will probably turn the watch anyway, to admire the dial and forget about the time completely.
As the Code41 Anomaly-02 design book dictates, their can’t be complete circles in the dial, and this is also reflected with the lume indices and the outer ring of the dial. Only half the dial has the circle connecting the indices and the outer ring stops between 10 and 12 o’clock. This gives the watch even more of a unique sporty personality.
The date window is cut out from the dial with a nice beveled edge and the date is well centered with crisp printing. I like that they choose a white on black date wheel, which is something many dive watches with black dials gets wrong.
The hour and minute hands are lovely polished skeleton sword like hands, with a 3D effect that is simply adore! Ilove the way they start flat, then goes up at a 45 degree angle, and then bends to become flat again. Crisp lume and perfect finish, no complaints there.
The seconds hand is a very basic baton hand with a small “tail”, with black paint in the middle. It’s simplicity makes sure that the two other hands gets all the attention, while still showing you that this watch ticks away at 28.800 beats per hour! I choose to go with the perforated black leather strap with the red stitches on the side. It gives the watch a slightly sportier feel, while still remaining dressy. A red dot on the tip of the seconds hand would have been a really nice touch to compliment this strap. The strap feels great and is very supple from the get go, hugging your wrist immediately without any “pre-ending”. It’s nice and thick, smells great, and will keep looking great thanks to the signed butterfly clasp that it comes with. I really like these push button clasps on leather straps, because it gives the watch a more luxurious feel and helps keep the strap in better condition by avoiding excessive bending when putting it on.
Like with the Anomaly 01, the Code41 Anomaly-02 is a striking watch, with great wrist presence and a very satisfying feel to it. Whether you like the design or not, it sure is unique and nothing like any other watch i have seen. And if you fall in love with the design and decide to buy it, you will fall in love again once you open it and feel the quality of the watch!
This watch is so fun to wear in any situation, even at fancier events that requires shirt and tie, and truly stand out in the vast sea of generic looking watches. It gets more attention than a Rolex Submariner, without being pretentious, and will leave people wondering if they can afford it or not. The answer is most often “yes”!
I highly advise you to go check out their website here! It has tons of information about the brand and the journey that took them to where they are, as well as other striking watches!
Code41 X41 Titanium
When I first came across CODE41, the CODE41 X41 AeroCarbon had my immediate attention. Here was a watch that – on paper – offered considerably more technical watchmaking and engineering prowess than its price point competitors. CODE41 coupled this value proposition with a promise of increased transparency, lifting the veil on costs to give potential buyers more insight on how much manufacturing watches actually costs.
The CODE41 X41 Edition 5 is the latest and so far greatest model for CODE41, maintaining the same sci-fi appearance that befits its futuristic watchmaking whilst incorporating some improvements from the older generations. The most obvious of these are the new colour options for the AeroCarbon model, with either a sleek grey giving a tad more contrast to the overall stealthy look of the watch, or a steely blue that transports the look of the “dial” into even more of a spaceship vibe. Although the AeroCarbon is twice as light as the titanium models, the new Grade 5 titanium cases are themselves 43% lighter than steel, as well as being more scratch-resistant and generally tougher than the previous Grade 2 iterations.
All of this weight saving lends itself to a more wearable watch than previously, with a 42mm diameter and 11.7mm thickness assisted by a short lug-length to fit nicely on the average wrist, with ample room to spare for those with smaller or larger tastes. The titanium version weighs just 85g on a leather strap, with the AeroCarbon coming in at 75g. Better still, the watch now offers 100 metres of water resistance – not bad going considering that many pieces of this complexity tend to only carry 30-50 metres.
While the sharply modern look of the watch will appeal to many without further explanation, it would be remiss to not first discuss the skeletonised movement that forms the entirety of the dial. As with the previous generations, the movement is produced by Timeless Manufacture, based out of the Jura Mountains in Switzerland. There’s not a whole lot of information out there about who they supply, although as we can see from their Instagram full of delectable macro photography, the level of engineering and finishing in these movements is impressive. Personnel of the company includes Dominique Renaud, co-founder of the legendary Renaud & Papi who worked alongside brands the likes of Richard Mille, IWC, and Audemars Piguet, as well as Pierre Favre, whose experience encompasses over 20 years with Patek Philippe, plus various projects for Jacob & Co. and Girard-Perregaux. Clearly, this is a company with high-horology associations where it counts.
The movement itself carries some impressive specifications, as you’d expect from the expertise involved, with 297 components and 33 jewels working in harmony at 28,800 vibrations per hour to provide an accuracy within -2/+10 seconds per day, and a power reserve of 45 hours. From a shot of the sapphire caseback, you may assume that the watch is manually-wound, however it actually uses a peripheral winding rotor that keeps the movement thin and attractive, as well as showing off more of the technical prowess within the walls of Timeless Manufacture.
As far as the looks go, the X41 is quite versatile for such an extreme design. The Titanium Grey version, for example, is clean and neutral, and it’s easy to imagine wearing it in an everyday context without strange clashes or trouble reading the time. The AeroCarbon Grey on the other hand is a pinnacle of sportiness, with red accents on the tips of the hands and rally-strap stitching making the charcoal case look even darker. The criss-crossing bridges of the movement are all angled away from each other, playing with the light in different ways and scattering it across all of the visible moving components in a diverting way. The barriers between case, dial, and movement have been removed, giving the whole watch a nicely integrated appearance.
Prices for the X41 begin at $5443 USD for the Titanium model and $5948 USD for the AeroCarbon and, as to be expected from CODE41, we can see the entire cost breakdown of each of the watch’s components. The movement alone directly from Timeless Manufacture is $1705USD, and the cases are manufactured in China.
Even though the watch outstrips the 60% Swiss requirement for the “Swiss Made” label to be printed – it actually has 90% Swiss origins – CODE41 choose to ignore the prestigious tag as a statement against its misleading nature that promotes an environment of secrecy within watch brands. If you want to secure an CODE41 X41 Edition 5, visit the CODE41 site and project page here.
Code41 DAY41 37mm
Following the great success of the first two editions of the fabulous DAY41 project (3,019 pieces sold for a total of 1,646,520 CHF!), many of you have been asking whether a new series would ever see the light of day.
Your wish is our command, and pre-orders for the DAY41 Edition 3 are now open. If you haven’t had the chance to pre-order your model so far, get a move on; they’re only here until November 4 2021!
CODE41 is more than just a brand, it’s a movement, human-powered watchmaking. The aim is to devise the creation of a watch as an extraordinary adventure to which everyone can contribute.
The DAY41 Edition project is a result of the direct impetus of our female community. After 8 months of voting and passionate debates, we’ve ended up with a unique result that goes against the flow of traditional watchmaking: a watch that reveals all that is within thanks to its entirely skeletal movement, allowing the wearer to contemplate its beauty.
One distinctive feature that will thrill lovers of detail: you can admire your DAY41 from every angle, thanks to the transparent caseback made from sapphire crystal.
In short: an immaculate, elegant mechanical piece that looks perfect on any wrist, female and male alike!
Despite a background of difficulties in production and delivery linked to Covid, all of the DAY41 Edition Creator Editions and Edition 2s have reached their owners safe and sound.
For that matter, you might be wondering how your timepiece arrives at its destination. Relive the adventure of the first DAY41 deliveries – carried out in person by our teams – as if you were actually there, and additionally discover what the first Creator members think!
Mechanical watches are traditionally the exclusive domain of men. Thanks to the participation of thousands of women, and heightened creativity, the DAY41 project shows that they too are fond of raw, machined, mechanical designs.
In fact, the case is simple and elegant, while both its lugs and its chambered structure lend it a strong, specific, recognizable esthetic. The openwork dial becomes an extension of the movement, allowing the mechanical magic to shine through.
\\So that the DAY41 can adapt to any size of wrist (men’s or women’s), it is available in 37mm and 40mm sizes. 5 color variants are available for the 37mm version, including one set with diamonds, and 3 variants for the 40mm. In addition, a wide range of straps is available to suit all tastes, including our R41 rubber strap, available in a wide range of colors! Our straps feature an ingenious system that allows you to change your style quickly, easily, and with no need for tools, in just a few seconds. The collection consists of a diverse selection of leather, steel, flax and rubber straps. And the icing on the cake? All of our straps are fitted with a deployment clasp with push buttons! It quite simply is the best there is :).
Code41 DAY41 40mm
CODE41’s DAY41 concept started in June 2019 with an idea for a new women’s’ watch collection. CODE41 decided to let their community vote on each step of the project, starting with the choice of movement, and then moving on to the case size, type of dial, and strap material and color. Designing a timepiece that would be a true reflection of what women want, instead of what men think they want.
Surprisingly, 70% of the votes were for an automatic movement – when the vast majority of women’s watches on the market are quartz – proving that women are also sensitive to the beauty of mechanical movements. They also opted for a 37mm case size and five different dial and strap executions. But what was also interesting about the voting process was that numerous men were also voting and expressing interest in this particular design. Thanks to this interest, the brand decided to add a second, 40mm, size to offer a truly unisex collection so that everyone can enjoy the DAY41.
The first edition of the DAY41 ended up selling 1,941 pieces for a total of 2,185,345 CHF during the pre-order period (January 29 to February 28, 2020). The sales came from all around the world and were pretty evenly split between women, 42%, and men, 58%.
With over 9,000 people already on the waiting list, the race to own the CODE41 DAY41 Edition 2 will be even crazier than the first time around! The DAY41 is powered by the Swiss STP6-15 automatic movement that comes with a bi-directional rewinding rotor and a 44-hour power reserve when not in use. The movement is visible through the scratch-resistant sapphire glass on the case back.
There is a wide choice of straps including three eco-friendly straps made from recycled leather, flax, and even a paper one. The DAY41 is fitted with the brand’s easy-change system, which means you can change your strap at home, without the need for any tools. And last but not least, the straps are fitted with a three-blade deployment buckle with pushers to open it for simplicity and ultimate comfort.
Where CODE41 really shows us just how different they are from other watch brands is in their total transparency. The price of each watch is based on the production cost and not the highest price the brand thinks it can sell its watch for. The cost of each component, from the steel case to the movement to the assembly is detailed on the brand’s website along with its country of origin. The total cost of production including all taxes is freely communicated as well as the multiplier applied to reach the sales price.
As long as your order has not been shipped cancellation is free. Once you receive your CODE41 watch you have 30 days to think about if you want to return it or you just can’t live without it. There is even a 2-year guarantee so in the event of any issues CODE41 will collect your watch and repair any technical problems at their expense, committing to returning the watch to your wrist as fast as possible.
Code41 X41 AreoCarbon Black
CODE41 built its brand by combining the best of traditional watchmaking with avant-garde materials and design, bringing these worlds together at surprisingly affordable prices. For just $5,740, the CODE41 X41: Edition 4 offers the best of high-end watchmaking — custom Swiss movement, including a peripheral rotor and Grande date complication, exceptional materials, artisanship, and finishing, and the kind of attention to detail that defines the best of Swiss watchmaking — all at a fraction of the usual cost.
CODE41 launched its brand in 2016 and has been community-driven since its inception. It is a brand created and driven by enthusiasts. Customers are involved in each step of the process, from manufacturing to strategy to logistics. Customers can even vote and provide feedback throughout the design and manufacturing process.
Just released for preorder, the CODE41 X41: Edition 4 builds upon the success of the X41: Edition 3 through the addition of an AeroCarbon case. Why AeroCarbon? Because CODE41 is all about pushing the boundaries of what is possible in horology. AeroCarbon is used exclusively in the aeronautics and aerospace industry for good reason: It’s half the weight of titanium and exhibits 2.5x the resistance to bending than steel. In other words, this is no simple composite case. Specially produced and manufactured in France, the production of AeroCarbon requires 300 ultra-thin layers, each laid perpendicular to the last, and compacted with 10bars of pressure in an autoclave. The result is a case material that is extremely dense, lightweight, watertight, and strong — everything you want in a watch case.
The 42mm AeroCarbon case of the X41 sets the stage, but the dial is the star of the show. The X41 features a skeletonized dial that puts the custom movement on full display. Complementing the black AeroCarbon case, the movement is supported by aggressive, angular elements and surrounded by a deeply engraved chapter ring that features luminous hour markers. The skeletonized theme continues to a luminous handset, adding nighttime legibility. At 12 o’clock, a grand date complication takes center stage, the two date wheels moving harmoniously to provide instant legibility that merges seamlessly with the watch’s design language.
When young brands launch, rarely, if ever, do they do so with a completely custom movement. But CODE41 isn’t just another brand. To produce the movement for the X41, CODE41 partnered with Timeless, one of the top Swiss movement manufacturers that produces all its movement components in-house, with the exception of the balance wheel. In the case of the X41, the Geneva-based design group produced a movement with a peripheral rotor — a feature found only in a handful of brands, on a select few models costing many times that of the X41. Peripheral rotors are incredibly difficult to perfect due to challenges with the precision-machining required to produce the components. After several years of development, the X41 nailed process, and the result is a high-precision automatic movement that beats at 28.8kbph, features 33 jewels, Incabloc shock absorption, and a 45-hour power reserve. To ensure accurate timekeeping, each movement is regulated in five positions prior to delivery.
One of the concerns with custom movements is the availability of parts and service in the future. Code 41 addressed this issue from the inception of the movement, producing an extensive inventory of spare parts and working with Timeless to ensure continuity of service and parts well into the future, even if the worst were to happen to your CODE41.
The “Swiss Made” label, once a source of pride in watchmaking, has become muddied by the vague requirement to attain the label: 60% of the value of the watch must come from Switzerland. As a result, many brands obfuscate the origins of materials, components, and manufacturing, devaluing the Swiss Made label. CODE41 watches easily exceed that 60% requirement, with 90% of the value coming from Switzerland. Despite earning the designation, Code 41 eschews the “Swiss Made” label and instead opts for full transparency, listing the cost and origin of each component used in the manufacture of its watches.
The X41 exemplifies the best of high-end Swiss watchmaking, but this only matters if the watch is a joy to wear. With a 42mm case, 48mm lug-to-lug distance, and a featherweight 45-gram weight (72 grams with leather strap), the X41 will be exceptionally comfortable, day in and day out. The X41 is available on a selection of quick-change leather straps and ships in a custom box. Simply put, with the Code41 X41 AeroCarbon, Code41 is offering true haute horology at a fraction of the cost. The X41 starts at $5,740. Visit CODE41’s website to pre-order the X41: Edition 4.
Code41 NB24 Titanium
When you observe the collective offerings across conglomerate brands, many of the watches you find are familiar takes on the same old formats and profiles. This has opened some room for micro-brands to rise and introduce watches with more striking aesthetics – bringing refreshing and distinct timepieces to market that often deliver incredible value for the consumer. One such up-and-coming brand, Code41 NB24 Titanium, are quickly making a name for themselves by making complex case designs with heavily re-worked and regulated movements at highly accessible price points. Now they’ve released a new chronograph in two head-turning variations: the CODE41 NB24 Chronograph Creator Edition.
According to CODE41: “The NB24 encapsulates the story of our ambassador Nigel Bailly and his dream of taking part in the 24 Hours of Le Mans. When this young paraplegic driver shared with us his passion and determination in 2017, we were immediately drawn in and decided to accompany him in his adventure. After three years of relentless work, Nigel will take part in the 24 Hours of Le Mans in June 2021, thus proving that nothing is impossible.”
The CODE41 NB24 Chronograph Creator Edition is available in two case materials: grade 5 titanium and a high density aeronautical carbon fibre called AeroCarbon. Excluding the strap/bracelet, the grade 5 titanium version has a case that weighs 78g while the AeroCarbon case is even lighter weighing 64g. These notably lightweight builds belie the watches’ robust nature. Both are shockproof and also water-resistant up to 100 metres – more than ready for daily wear. They are each the same size, with a case diameter of 42mm and case thickness of 13.7mm.
The majority of the watch is satin-brushed on the grade 5 titanium models, but the AeroCarbon models have a carbon-fibre texture on the front of the case that breaks as you reach the sloped lugs and caseband – taking on a a more matte blasted finish. You will find the start/stop chronograph pusher at the 2 o’clock position, reset pusher at the 4′ position with the crown placed at the standard 3′ position in between two pushers. Both cases have a hairline polish that surrounds the bezel and sloped scalloped lugs that pair well with the futuristic aesthetic of the dial.
Underneath the sapphire crystal, the dial is open-worked and really gives off a technical aesthetic that gearheads and watch enthusiasts will love. In terms of complications, the date can be found above the the sixth hour index and the chronograph is comprised of an elapsed minutes disc at 3 o’clock and the central seconds hand. At 9′ is a running seconds disk that indicates the running seconds.
The discs rotate, with the adjacent triangles placed to signal the number to read from the disc. When the chronograph is in use, the elapsed minutes disc will rotate one increment every 60 seconds to indicate the passage of a minute. The running seconds disc will continually rotate, making one full rotation every 60 seconds. In terms of colour configurations, there are four to choose from in each case metal – resulting in eight configurations (excluding the various straps available).
The discs and hands are not the only thing that rotate on the dial. Around the outer edge, behind the stepped outer minute ring, is the peripheral rotor which means you can see the mass self-winding the watch from the dial side of the watch.
There is a wide selection of straps (or even a titanium bracelet) to pair your selected watch with to match your taste. The leather straps come in three different styles, and in multiple colours – calf leather, perforated calf leather, and calf leather with alligator pattern (each fastened to the wrist with a case tone matching deployant clasp).
The good news, if you can’t narrow it down to only one, you can actually purchase extra straps as add-ons so that you have multiple looks to play with upon receiving the watch. As always, I would suggest buying the watch on a bracelet if you think you might want it because it is a little bit more expensive to purchase as an add-on versus selecting it as your main strap option with the watch. Fortunately the tool-free quick assembly strap system makes swapping looks hassle-free. The bracelet is available in both satin-brushed titanium for the Grade 5 Titanium cases and matte-black PVD treated titanium to match the AeroCarbon versions of the watch. Both have links secured by a pin and collar system, and can be sized by any watchmaker (or even yourself if you have the right tools).
The automatic chronograph movement is on full display thanks to the sapphire-crystal exhibition caseback and peripheral rotor that results in an unobstructed view. It is based on the renowned Valjoux 7750, but is highly customised by CODE41 movement partner Concepto who specialises in working with this chronograph caliber. The cam-driven chronograph movement has a total of 326 components, 35 jewels, and is regulated to a highly accurate +/- five seconds per day. Some of the bridges have satin-brushed edges that frame a really cool scalloped portion with a frosted texture, somewhat reminiscent of what you would find on a Grönefeld watch. They also feature nicely executed machined chamfers for added elegance. A nice touch, in terms of the movement decoration and aesthetic, is the peripheral rotor and bridges are treated to take on the same colour as the dial configuration. Most brands would have left it finished in a neutral color to match all configurations, but CODE41 really works to ensure it is a personalised offer.