One of the things I admire most about Breitling is that while the brand is a blue-chip luxury marque, it still produces contemporary sport and tool watches powered by high-tech quartz movements. While models like the Aerospace and Emergency arguably best epitomize this side of Breitling’s catalog, the Endurance Pro is the brand’s entry-level collection of multi-purpose sports watches offering lightweight carbon composite cases and highly accurate thermo-compensated movements. While the original series of models debuted back in 2020 and was exclusively offered in a 44mm format, Breitling has created a new 38mm midsize version of its entry-level quartz chronograph as its latest release of 2024, and the new Breitling Endurance Pro 38 makes its debut appearance in five different colorways.
At the time of launch, the new Breitling Endurance Pro 38 lineup is available in purple (ref. X83310F61B1S1), pink (ref. X83310D41B1S1), white (ref. X83310A71B1S1), light blue (ref. X83310281B1S1), and red (X83310D91B2S1). Additionally, while white, blue, and red previously existed as options among the full-size Endurance Pro 44 models, the purple and pink colorways represent entirely new options for the collection. Like their larger 44mm counterparts, the new Breitling Endurance Pro 38 models feature their respective colors on their dials and straps, along with the rubberized grips for their crowns and the small contrasting rings that adorn their pushers. With that in mind, aside from their colorways, the five new Endurance Pro 38 models are otherwise identical, and they closely follow the blueprint established by the full-size models that have become a cornerstone offering within the Swiss brand’s modern lineup.
Crafted from Breitlight, which is the brand’s proprietary carbon composite material that is three times lighter than titanium and six times lighter than stainless steel, the case of the new Breitling Endurance Pro 38 watches measures 38mm in diameter by 12.1mm thick, with 18mm lugs and an overall lug-to-lug profile of 44.7mm. The use of Breitlight for the case components combined with its reduced dimensions results in an incredibly lightweight overall package of just 26.5 grams (or 49.4 grams if you include the rubber strap), and just like the larger 44mm models, the new Breitling Endurance Pro 38 watches feature flat sapphire crystals above their dials, bidirectional bezels with compass scales, screw-on casebacks crafted from Breitlight, and 100 meters of water resistance to protect against most forms of moisture contact.
Just like their cases, the dials fitted to the new Breitling Endurance Pro 38 watches are essentially just smaller versions of what can be found among the full-size 44mm models, and they feature Arabic numeral hour markers, a trio of registers, and a date window at the 4:30 position. As the Endurance Pro series is intended for athletes, a pulsometer scale is printed along a color-coordinated angled chapter ring surrounding the periphery of the dial, and the hands and hour markers are finished with Super-LumiNova for increased legibility in dark settings. Just like a standard chronograph, two of the three sub-dials on the Breitling Endurance Pro models are occupied by a running seconds register and a 30-minute totalizer; however, rather than counting the elapsed hours, the third register measures times down to 1/10th of a second to allow users to take advantage of the Endurance Pro’s high-accuracy quartz chronograph movement.
While the full-size 44mm models are powered by the Caliber 82, the new Breitling Endurance Pro 38 watches receive the brand’s Caliber 83 thermo-compensated SuperQuartz movement, which offers a smaller diameter to better correspond to the collection’s reduced sizing. Despite being quartz, the Breitling Cal. 83 is a COSC-certified chronometer, which means that it adheres to the accuracy standards of -/+10 seconds per year, and as one of the brand’s SuperQuartz designs, the Cal. 83 features an integrated regulation system that counteracts the effects of temperature fluctuations that would normally impact the timekeeping of a traditional quartz movement. However, just like the Cal. 82 used inside the larger 44mm models, the Breitling Cal. 83 is listed as having a battery life of approximately two years, and this undeniably seems rather short compared to what can be found elsewhere within the industry.
Fitted to the 18mm lugs of the new Breitling Endurance Pro 38 watches are rubber straps that match the colorway of each model. Unlike the straps found on the original 44mm Endurance Pro watches that have the “Breitling” name boldly embossed into their outer surfaces, the straps fitted to the new midsize models offer an updated textured design that more closely mirrors what can be found on the latest generation of the Superocean. That said, rather than having a chunky folding clasp, the straps fitted to the new Endurance Pro 38 models are completed by tang-style buckles crafted from Breitlight to further lean into the lightweight structure of the collection. In addition to debuting on the new Endurance Pro 38, this new style of rubber strap is also being carried over to the 44mm models, and Breitling has also released updated versions of the Endurance Pro 44 in dark blue, orange, white, and light blue with updated rubber straps.
Category: Breitling Watch
Breitling Endurance Pro 44
Whether you’re a fighter pilot, a civilian aviator, or just a dyed-in-the-wool tool watch enthusiast, there’s a pretty good chance that your first brush with Breitling was one of its Professional watches – a broad line of stylish quartz-powered references that has remained one of the brand’s core collections since its informal debut as the Aerospace in 1985. Over the last three and a half decades, the Professional umbrella has evolved dramatically, from the entry-level Aerospace to more feature-rich offerings like the rugged Chronospace, the state-of-the-art Exospace, and the mighty Emergency – a legendary adventure watch capable of summoning a helicopter (ie: the world’s most expensive Uber ride) for when things go really sideways. Given its cool, modern aesthetic and long legacy of highly accurate, multi-function utility watches, the Professional line is a natural home for Breitling Endurance Pro – another category-specific tool watch, this time designed with athletes in mind.
With regards to its Professional collection stablemates, the new Endurance Pro probably has the most in common in both proportion and functionality with the Chronospace Evo – a fully analog spin-off of the ana-digi hybrid Aerospace Evo. Though marketed at pilots, the modern Aerospace was already an excellent multi-sport & adventure watch (and a perfect cycling watch, I’ll add), thanks to its light weight, easy wearability, and multiple functions. The new Breitling Endurance Pro carries that torch, reportedly with design input from Breitling ambassador and three-time Ironman World Champion Jan Frodeno, yielding a reference that mixes in a few new elements, including a Breitlight carbon fiber composite case that’s 30% lighter than titanium, a bi-directional rotating compass bezel (likely cribbed from the Chronospace Military), and a subtly updated aesthetic, which appears to be reflecting the new art direction for the Professional collection as a whole.
Now it doesn’t matter if you’re a professional athlete like Frodeno or a fitness enthusiast logging miles between a regular nine-to-five, if you run, swim, or ride bikes and appreciate watches, you already know that finding just the ‘right’ watch to keep you on-time and your wrist tanline dutifully maintained during training season can be a tricky affair. An oversized dive or pilot watch might have the shock countermeasures requisite to keep an automatic movement running accurately, but these larger designs often trade legibility for weight – and a distracting, top-heavy watch is hardly the right choice, especially during longer or harder efforts. Conversely, though a cheap, battery-powered watch might be the safest concession (especially in the instance of a crash or a fall) in this instance, it undoubtedly lacks that certain ‘je ne sais quoi’ that many athletes seek out when it comes time to personalize their gear or riding kit.
Obviously, most professional athletes tend to train or race with GPS-enabled digital devices that measure efforts and comprehensively track workout data, but just as a professional divemaster might wear a digital dive computer on every outing, the Breitling Endurance Pro isn’t meant to replace such a device, it’s meant to supplement it. By the same token, I ride with a Wahoo Roam, which displays power, heart rate, VAM (when climbing), along with distance and elevation metrics, but I leave the day’s timekeeping to the wrist, as I simply prefer to wear a watch. Plus, I’ve had head units die on me while out on a ride, and at least being able to get home in time for brunch is never a bad thing. Two is one, and one is none, right?
Ultimately, I’m particularly impressed that Breitling has actually touched on the elements of not just what makes a sports watch cool, but one that’s actually useful in practice – y’know, as a sports watch. In keeping with the traditions I’d come to expect from Breitling, it’s detail-rich, quite masculine by design, and extremely well made. And in the same traditions, it’s also large and legible at a glance, but hardly unwearable – thanks to the impressive lightness of its 44mm x 12.5mm Breitlight case, which weighs a scant 35 grams without its rubber strap (funnily enough, the strap weighs about the same, adding 30 grams to the total package). And it’s powered by a quartz movement – which, though perhaps not the first choice for many watch enthusiasts, is actually in practice, a much safer and more accurate option from workout to workout.
Piggy-backing off the Chronospace Evo, the Breitling Endurance Pro movement in question deployed for the Endurance is an in-house manufactured 1/10th of a second quartz chronograph calibre, though unlike the aforementioned, the Endurance uses Breitling’s Caliber 82, which trades the Evo’s 24-hour register at 9:00 for a 30 minute counter. This is a thermo-compensated, COSC-certified Chronometer movement, and it’s awfully nice to see some brands still catering to HAQ (high-accuracy quartz) watch fans – in addition to the athlete community.
BREITLING Chronomat B01
Breathing new life into old things is a particular talent of today’s luxury Swiss watch industry. The formula is simple. Take something from the past, adopt it for the tastes of today, and make sure when people see it they aren’t quite sure what era it was made for. Breitling’s re-launch of the Chronomat with the tube-style “Rouleaux” bracelet is very much an exercise in what today’s watch industry does best. Breitling quietly puts the previous Chronomat model to rest (it had been produced for a decade or more), and then brings back something from the Breitling world that I don’t believe retailers have seen in their shops since the 1990s.
The bad news is that terms like “Chronomat” have become a lot like “911” (in Porsche terms). They do mean a type of car/watch, but they don’t necessarily refer to any one particular item. So let’s call this watch by its slightly more precise (albeit just as vague) name, the Breitling Chronomat Bo1 42. Other parts of the aBlogtoWatch team have seen this watch before me. Launched in 2020 during the pandemic, it was not possible for us to all meet with Breitling at one inclusive event. aBlogtoWatch first launched the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 watch here, and then a bit later our David Bredan went hands-on with the larger Breitling Chronomat B01 42 timepeice collection here.
The question I wanted to answer for myself with the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 was how well it stood up to the competition given what works with collectors today. With prices starting at just above $8,000, the Chronomat is not just another fun aviation-inspired tool watch, but a serious luxury item that buyers will need to pit against Rolex, Omega, Blancpain, Glashutte Original, TAG Heuer, IWC, etc…. The challenge for Breitling is to produce a product that does three things well at the same time. The first thing is that the watch needs to fit the mold of a traditional tool watch. Second is that the watch needs to be visually handsome and complementary to the style of the wearer. Third, the watch needs to come from a brand whose appeal and popularity today merit luxury positioning and buying confidence.
Many would argue that compared to a lot of other brands Breitling is more of those things than much of the competition – especially in regard to branding and luxury positioning. Currently, under the leadership of Georges Kern, Breitling was fortunate to get a leg up on other brands by having been able to release a number of new watches late 2019 and early 2020 (whereas most of the competition was waiting to release new watches that trade shows canceled by the pandemic). Breitling has also been investing a lot in marketing prior to the pandemic, and the momentum of that noise has carried on into the first half of 2020. For now, Breitling is rather hot with collectors, which means that an attractive and spirited new product collection will command even more attention and be gobbled up by consumers now versus after the market has had time to become more familiar with the product.
The core story behind the Chronomat is the type of military tie-in which is at the basis of so many great timepiece tales. In around 1984 Breitling produced a watch for a squadron of Italian airforce pilots (the Frecce Tricolori) that eventually turned into the first Chronomat models. This is when Breitling debuted both the Rouleaux bracelet and the rotating bezel with the “rider tabs” (that I called “bezel claws”). This look (especially the bezel) dominated the look of Breitling watches for nearly a decade. When Breitling started to make their own in-house caliber B01 automatic chronograph movements, the Chronomat lost that bezel and bracelet – turning into something a bit more generic (albeit still very nice) and help carry Breitling through an important era. On aBlogtoWatch I reviewed the previous generation Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT here. While it features the same movement, the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 is a very different watch. What I find interesting is that while it is inspired by nearly all generations of Breitling Chronomat watches, it ends up being something entirely new altogether.
The case size has been something of a conversation topic. People are trying to lean toward more comfortable and easy to wear watches – which means some larger Breitling watches of old are more passe in style. The previous-gen Chronomat’s largest case size was 47mm-wide — clearly massive for many wrists. The 2024 Breitling Chronomat B01 42 is 42mm-wide and about 15mm-thick. It wears large but not too large, in my opinion. The sense of size is really a function of all the nicely polished steel and the wide lugs combined with the dramatic tapering of the Rouleaux bracelet. As always for Breitling, the steel case (two-tone or an all gold version is also available) is exceptionally well-made with excellent finishing. I have always stood by the opinion that Breitling makes some of the best cases on the market when it comes to crisp details and the quality of polishes and surface treatments.
Breitling also now has a watch that at least in appearance competes in the “steel watch with integrated bracelet market.” For me, that is the best trick that the Chronomat B01 42 plays since it isn’t traditionally thought of as a watch that fits that style — now it does. From a construction standpoint, the new bracelet is nothing like the traditional Rouleaux bracelets of a few decades ago. These new ones are built more like contemporary luxury products with parts being individually machines and polished, and generally using much more sturdy pieces of metal. Old Rouleaux bracelet would bend and stretch over time. This bracelet doesn’t appear to be prone to any of that type of wear over time. The fresh form of the bracelet is what is important. It is comfortable yes, but more important is that it sticks out and helps the experience of wearing a Breitling Chronomat B01 42 be more distinctive. This will only help increase the value of the watch for many consumers, as people don’t want generic luxury watch experiences at these price points.
The new rotating bezel design is clearly inspired by the original Chronomat watches, but they lack a lot of the funky character. Breitling did an amazing job of making them feel refined and high-end, for sure. That said, the oddity of the screwed-on “rider tabs” and the peripheral screws that jut out are gone. The bezel of the new Chronomat collection does even have those screws around the periphery, but they are effectively minimized such that you can’t really call them a key part of the piece’s personality. It isn’t that the bezel is a missed opportunity, but rather that Breitling made the specific decision it should not be a major part of the new Chronomat’s distinctive features — they left that to the bracelet.
Many brands including Breitling have delighted in updated vintage “hot dog on a stick” style hour and minute hands to make them feel a bit more modern and angular. Likewise, the new Chronomat’s hands take the shape of vintage Chronomat watches and render them for today’s tastes. The tri-compax array chronograph dials of the Chronomat watches are very refined and elegant and demonstrate a sort of simple conservatism that today’s Breitling enjoys. The dial experience works because of the familiar look and the good use of colors and materials. Breitling isn’t innovating much in this area, but I don’t think the dial will leave anyone feeling anything but, “That’s a handsome watch.”
I do like that Breitling managed to engineer out the screw-down chronograph pushers. This vestigial element was designed to offer more water and elemental resistance, but for the most part simply prevented more people from using the chronograph. The watch still manages to be water-resistant to 200 meters without the screw-down chronograph pushers — a success, in my opinion. I also like the slightly oversized look of the crown and the design of the entire crown and pusher region of the watch on the right of the case. Depending on your taste and budget, Breitling offers the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 case and bracelet in all steel, or with various degrees of gold for two-tone models. An all-gold model exists, but I do not yet believe there is a solid-gold bracelet option. Eventually, there will be, and that will make one hell of a bold statement on the wrist for those who can fork over for it.
With variety in mind, Breitling designed the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 to be available in literally dozens of versions of the years. Simply by swapping colors and materials, the chore Breitling Chronomat B01 42 case with chronograph movement can be rendered in so many interesting ways. I happen to love those dials with contrasting subdials, and for now, I happen to prefer the watch in all steel. The movement isn’t new, but Breitling’s in-house-made caliber B01 automatic chronograph is a great performer and has held up well. It still looks great in execution, and while not industry-leading in any regard, is a stable 4Hz frequency movement with about 70 hours of power reserve. You can view the movement through the sapphire crystal window on the rear of the watch.
BREITLING Superocean Automatic
Sure, Breitling might be most recognized – and rightly so – for its pilot’s and aviation-inspired watches. But it didn’t just leave exploring the depths of the oceans to its competitors. No, in 1957, Breitling introduced the SuperOcean, both as a time-only diver and (true to form) as a chronograph. Soon, it’d release other vintage models like the SuperOcean “Slow Motion” and the Chrono-Matic, now favorites of modern enthusiasts.
What we have here is the Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 42 A17366, a dive watch from 2019 measuring 42mm in diameter and 13.5mm in thickness. This modern Breitling SuperOcean Automatic is an impressive dive watch with 500 meters of water resistance, more than you’ll find on many of its competitors. It’s defined by a number of bold design choices. It starts with the thick and deeply-toothed, unidirectional bezel that features raised indices as a luxurious touch. The dial is a similar matte black, with large raised Arabic numerals and indices, giving off the impression that modern diving functionality was actually considered in the design of this dive watch. At 42mm in diameter and about 50.5mm lug-to-lug, the stainless steel case is large, but not unmanageable for many wrist sizes.
This Breitling SuperOcean Automatic is powered by the Breitling caliber 17, an automatic movement based on the ETA 2824-2 – a no-nonsense movement that means the SuperOcean continues to be a reliable, (relatively) affordable option for those looking for a no-fuss modern diver.
Breitling Avenger Automatic 42 Red Arrows
Introducing a remarkable timepiece that embodies precision, resilience, and a rich heritage of aviation excellence – the Breitling Avenger Auto 42 Red Arrows 60th Anniversary Edition.
Available with a sleek stainless-steel bracelet, this limited-edition watch is set to captivate Breitling enthusiasts and aviation aficionados alike.
In commemoration of the Red Arrows’ 60th anniversary display season, Breitling has crafted a watch that not only honours the esteemed aerobatic team but also supports the Royal Air Force Benevolent Fund. Limited to just 360 pieces (275 bracelets / 85 straps) worldwide, the Avenger Auto 42 Red Arrows 60th Anniversary Edition is more than a timepiece; it’s a tribute to the inspiring service of the British armed forces.
The Avenger Auto 42 features a meticulously balanced design, enriched with striking details that highlight its prestigious partnership. The blue-and-black dial, adorned with red accents including the tip of the seconds hand, pays homage to the Red Arrows insignia. At 9 o’clock, the team’s iconic crest, emblazoned with “éclat” (meaning “brilliance”), stands out, symbolising their legacy.
The robust 42mm stainless steel case is built to withstand the toughest conditions, offering water resistance up to 300 metres. Whether you’re soaring through the skies or navigating the depths of the sea, the Avenger Auto 42 is engineered for reliability and performance.
At the heart of this exceptional timepiece lies the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17 automatic movement, renowned for its precision and dependability. With a power reserve of up to 38 hours, this movement ensures that the watch remains as reliable as the pilots it celebrates.
Even if you aren’t the world’s biggest fan of aviation, fighter jets, or even the Hollywood classic Top Gun, we all know the name Red Arrow. Flying across the world with their incredible displays of skill and precision, the Red Arrows are celebrating 60 years of aviation aerobatics. And they are doing it in luxury.
Breitling extends their Avenger line with 2 new Breitling Avenger Red Arrow Limited Edition Watches. Sporting the iconic Red Arrow Team colours and practical aviation functions, these tool watches are as sleek as they are essential.
Formed in 1964, the Red Arrows was originally known as the Royal Air Force Aerobatic Team. Showcasing the incredible skill, teamwork, and precise timekeeping needed to fly these powerful jets.
They explored Britain, taking their displays across the nation and becoming an iconic part of the British summer.
Each member of the aviation aerobatic team has previously flown with the frontline Royal Air Force squadrons. After completing their three-year tenure with the team, they will resume their duties in operations, training, staff positions, or other assignments within the Royal Air Force. I.e the Red Arrows are real soldiers showing off their skills!
2024 marked 60 years of unforgettable displays, leaving the sky painted in a mirage of colour and their crowds left feeling elated. Pilots of the Red Arrows need a timepiece that offers both accuracy and outstanding durability. The Breitling Avenger 42 Red Arrows 60th Anniversary Edition, a special limited release commemorating the team’s 60th display season, serves as the perfect accessory for high-flying exploits.
With 2 looks, this anniversary watch is available with a three-row stainless steel bracelet or a sleek blue military leather strap with stunning red stitching. Both models boast a large 42mm stainless steel case with the classic bezel.
In celebration of the partnership, the 60th anniversary edition showcases a bold blue and black dial, enhanced with stunning red highlights like the second hand’s tip. Additionally, the team’s iconic emblem, crafted in 1980, is prominently displayed at the 9 o’clock position.
Offering 300 metres water resistance and 30 hours power reserve from the COSC-Certified Breitling Calibre 17 automatic movement, you simply get to enjoy feeling like a military pilot.
The Breitling Avenger Red Arrow 60th Anniversary Edition was made in support of the Royal Airforce Benevolent Fun. A leading welfare charity that is crucial to those transitioning from life in the force and aids in supporting their families. Breitling is donating a percentage of the sales to this inspiring charity to aids the lives of our pilots after their service.
Breitling Premier Heritage B21 Chronograph Tourbillon
Since its introduction in mid-2021, the Breitling Top Time Classic Cars collection has changed the Top Time’s positioning in the brand hierarchy from an entry-level, youth-oriented chronograph series, to a more refined, lifestyle-inflected upscale collection. This revised line features frequent brand collaborations, exquisite finishing, and visual nods to some of the most beloved American automobiles of all time. The Top Time’s move upmarket shows no signs of slowing in 2023, and Breitling’s latest suite of releases brings the nameplate to new heights by introducing a tourbillon to the collection for the first time ever. Although their wild new complications may take top billing, the new Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon collection (which includes the Breitling Top Time B21 Ford Mustang, Breitling Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra, and Breitling Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette) brings the Top Time series to luxe new frontiers through unique materials, refined presentation, and more subdued branding than its predecessors.
Interestingly, the watches in the new Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon collection do not all share the same case dimensions. While the Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra and Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette both opt for 44mm wide cases in sleek black ceramic, the Breitling Top Time B21 Ford Mustang’s warm bronze case measures in slightly smaller at 43mm wide. With that said, there’s little that differentiates between the two case designs in images, other than their materials. Both case styles feature a broader, more imposing version of the Top Time’s familiar midcentury-sporty case silhouette in photos, with slightly tapering attached lugs, narrow smooth bezels, and richly brushed case sides. As one might expect, Breitling fits all three watches with sapphire display casebacks, offering an unimpeded view of the movements within. Although these may be more luxe variants of the base Top Time platform, Breitling maintains the line’s sporting edge, and all three models are rated for a solid 100 meters of water resistance.
Like their standard chronograph siblings, the Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon collection features dials inspired by the beloved cars that share their names. However, these models take a subtler approach, with more muted colors and no overt automotive branding in images. All three watches share the same dial layout, with an outer tachymeter ring in black, the line’s signature “squircle”-shaped 60-minute chronograph subdial at 6 o’clock, and a matching rounded-square cutout for the tourbillon escapement and its elegantly narrow skeleton bridge at 12 o’clock. From here, each model takes the layout in a different stylistic direction. With its surrounding bronze case and matching dial hardware, the Breitling Top Time B21 Ford Mustang’s vertically brushed Highland Green dial offers a deep, classically luxe colorway in images, harmonizing the tourbillon with the rest of the dial through matching and complementary hues. Conversely, the Breitling Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra takes a more serious, muted approach in initial photos, with its desaturated navy blue brushed dial and a blacked-out tourbillon bridge. Arguably the most striking of the trio, however, is the Breitling Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette. Rather than taking on an automotive paint-inspired dial hue like its counterparts, this model instead shifts its focus to the car’s dashboard. The dial surface is rendered from a single piece of walnut burl wood, featuring a rich blend of highlights, shadows, and textures in images. Wood dials are a real rarity in the modern luxury watch landscape, but the results in photos are dynamic, nuanced, and genuinely compelling.
All three models in the Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon series utilize the Calibre B21 automatic tourbillon chronograph movement. First introduced in 2022’s Breitling Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon, Breitling developed the B21 in partnership with movement specialist La Joux-Perret. The end result is an impressively solid performer, with a 55 hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate, as well as COSC certified chronometer accuracy. On the finishing side, the Calibre B21 is crisp and modern, if unspectacular in images. Broad perlage along the mainplate is accented by vertical brushing and anglage for the upper three-quarter plate, while the engraved skeleton rotor is dominated by a matching mix of vertical brushing and anglage. As one might expect though, the tourbillon is the visual centerpiece here, thanks to its use of contrasting metals and the arcing, narrow lower tourbillon bridge. Breitling completes all three models with a faux-perforated rally-style leather deployant strap in either midnight blue or cognac brown.
The Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter
This year, Breitling will celebrate its 140th anniversary, and the party kicks off with a somewhat unexpected release into the esoteric and multitalented Aerospace family. This new model – dubbed the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter –functions as a double anniversary release as the watch has been created to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the completion of the first non-stop balloon flight around the world, which landed in Egypt on March 21st, 1999 (25 years ago to the day). With an orange dial that recalls the paint job for the Orbiter 3 capsule, this Aerospace takes it a step further by also incorporating a piece of the original balloon into the case back of each watch.
Following the current generation of the Aerospace EVO, the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter edition has a 43mm titanium case and comes on your choice of a matching titanium bracelet or a rubber strap. Possibly due to the balloon-laden sapphire case back, the Aerospace B70 Orbiter is 12.95mm thick, vs. the 10.8mm thickness of the standard E79363 generation.
Being an Aerospace, the B70 Orbiter has an ani-digi layout and offers everything from a date and second time zone to a flyback chronograph, timer, and alarm. All of these functions are coordinated via the pair of negative LCD displays that cut into the dial, which has a bright orange gradient base and features the logo from the Orbiter 3 mission (of which Breitling was a main sponsor).
The multi-functional capabilities of this Aerospace are derived from the Breitling B70, a thermocompensated high-accuracy SuperQuartz movement that is a new addition to the Aerospace line (the current generation uses the B79 SuperQuartz). With COSC certification, the B70 appears to be largely similar to the B79 aside from the possible omission of a backlight (this is yet unconfirmed beyond the listed specs) and the ability to run the chronograph to a second shy of 100 hours (vs. 48 hours for the B79). Apart from the functions, the other change with the B70 is the inclusion of two case-side pushers, presumably for controlling the many functions. While I haven’t had any hands-on time with the new model, this is a major departure from past Aerospace models, which features a single crown for controlling the digital complications and setting the watch.
The Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter production is not specifically numbered or limited beyond the availability of actual pieces of the Orbiter 3 balloon that are used in the caseback. Interested parties can expect a retail price of $4,700 on the rubber strap or $4,900 on the titanium bracelet.
I love ana-digi watches and have a genuine soft spot for Aerospace (especially the early examples). It’s a true modern tool watch, and I love the mix of function-over-form thinking and small elements like the fact that the displays (at least those with backlights) remain compatible with night vision goggles. I owned, adored, and entirely regret selling my grey-on-grey E56062-gen example and will almost certainly own another Aerospace in the future. Focusing on this specific new edition, the orange dial and the special balloon case back are certainly cool, but both ana-digi Breitling fans and old-school Hodinkee readers may remember that this is not the first Orbiter 3-themed Breitling. Back in 2000, the brand released the Emergency Orbiter 3, a 1,999-unit edition of the then-current Emergency generation with a blue dial that was further customized with the logo from Orbiter 3. My good pal Jason Heaton had one and wrote a lovely In-Depth for Hodinkee back in November of 2016 – I highly recommend you check it out here.
Back in 2000, the Emergency was selected because that’s what the crew of Orbiter 3 – Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones – wore while riding that balloon around the world. Given the difficulty of the mission and the likely need for rescue, the Emergency was the sensible option at the time. Sadly, that Emergency is no longer made, as it was discontinued more than a decade ago and was replaced by the Emergency II, which is available but as more of a special-order item). Within the modern Breitling catalog, the 25th anniversary thus fell to the Emergency’s sibling, the Aerospace.
Within that modern context, the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter gets the handsome orange dial, and a special edition is born (along with that piece of the original balloon). At 43mm, the watch is a bit large for today’s tastes but is actually no larger (in standard case dimensions) than the original Orbiter 3 Emergency. I do expect that titanium will help quite a bit here, but also that the size won’t be the first concern for the type of Breitling customer that would love to own this new Orbiter 3 Aerospace. This is a niche within a niche. With rumors mounting that the current-gen of the Aerospace will soon be replaced by an updated reference, this B70-powered example may be as much a forward-looking creation as it is a reference to a special event from a quarter century in the past.
For me, there are two takeaways. First, the Orbiter 3 mission is a great story, and I highly recommend you read Jason’s In-Depth on the mission and the original commemorative Emergency (re-linked here for convenience). Second, I’m thrilled that Breitling is not yet done with my favorite model in their lineup as the ever-foolish Aerospace continues to find a home in both Breitling’s past successes and the brand’s ever-evolving future.
Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter Titanium
Last week, I bought a 2024 Breitling Aeropsace. In some respect, it was a bit of an impulse buy. A friend, who was helping a retired veteran of the Canadian Armed Forces move a few watches, sent me the pics. Less than forty-eight hours later it was in the mail, destined for my front doorstep. However, looked at from another perspective, it was a quick decision made after months of scouring the Internet, “window shopping.” I moved a few of my own watches recently to gather funds and make way for a birthday purchase. I was more than prepared to make a move. I just didn’t know what the move was. I won’t bore you with the details of my browsing history, or the candidates at the top of my list. What I will tell you is that the Breitling wasn’t among them. In short, serendipity stepped in. A week before I was presented with the Aerospace, I listened to Episode 178 of The Grey NATO podcast (The Breitling Challenge). Toward the end of the show, a brief exchange concerning the Breitling Aeropsace took place, where co-host James Stacey lamented the sale of his early 40mm model. This got me thinking about the Breitling Aerospace ads I used to ogle in my teenage years—images of pilots in full flight suits, anonymously helmeted heads behind reflective goggles, a wing tip over their shoulders against hazy, pale blue horizons. The Aerospace was released in 1985 just before the movie Top Gun hit screens around the world. Although Cruise wore a Porsche Design by Orfina in the film, images of Breiltlings and fighter pilots are invariably jumbled together with my memory of the cocky Maverick (and, admittedly, the lovely Kelley McGillis).
I know how badly my thirteen-year-old self wanted to be a pilot at that brief moment in time, if only to be cool. Don’t we all long to be cool at thirteen? The Breitling Aeropsace is a staple in Breitling’s Professional Series. These are among the brand’s toughest, hard-wearing models, designed to perform in the field. As such, the Aerospace is not just a nod to the pilot watch aesthetic. It is a watch built for pilots. Dozens of air-squadron specific limited editions attest to its heritage, from the RAF Gulf War Combat Air Wings, to the F16 Falcon Pilots, and the Royal Navy Air Rescue, to name but a few. Originally, upon launch, the watch was called the “Navitimer Aerospace.” However, unlike its iconic namesake, the Aerospace was Breitling’s first dedicated quartz-powered pilot. The ana-digi display was quintessential 80s. The Calibre B56 offered the added benefit of a digital second time zone, a chronograph function, and a perpetual calendar. The watch, built from titanium even then, measured 40mm in diameter, and came in just over 9mm thick. It had a unidirectional, rotating bezel and a hardened mineral crystal. This early model offered only 30m of water resistance, however.
A decade later, in 1996, the movement was upgraded to the Calibre B65. The crystal became sapphire, and water resistance was bumped up to 100m. In 2001, again, the movement was improved to the Calibre B75. During these years, there were also small changes in dial fonts and labeling. However, the watch remained largely true to its initial design in size and aesthetics right up to 2004. The greatest innovation in the Breitling Aerospace line came between 2005 and 2007, when for a brief period the watch added the term “Avantage” to its name. Breitling introduced its Calibre B79 at this time—a movement it uses to this day in the latest iteration of the Aerospace, known as the EVO. The movement offers a gamut of functions, including a chronograph, GMT, countdown timer, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, backlight, and alarm. More importantly, the B79–based on the ETA 988.352—is thermo-compensated to resist changes in temperature. Breitling refer to it as SuperQuartz.
It is COSC chronometer certified and officially accurate to within ten seconds a year. Anecdotally, however, the watch often outperforms its own specs. This makes the B79 up ten times more accurate than a regular quartz movement. At the moment, only radio-controlled watches can outperform thermo-compensated quartz; however, this is not because of the movements’ superior quality, but rather because radio-controlled watches make periodic adjustments through communication with a better clock elsewhere.
The digital count adjustment method used by the B79, therefore, is a minor miracle of engineering—especially given that it was devised more than a decade ago. Today, only a handful of calibres, like the Citizen A660, lay claim to better accuracy. The 2007 Breitling Aerospace, and the models after it until 2013, grew to 42mm in diameter. It also thickened somewhat to 10.4mm. However, because of its titanium construction, it remained under 38g. The model I own (E79362), even with its slash-cut titanium bracelet weighs in at a mere 84g. To put that into perspective, my SPB143 and Aquastar Deepstar—when on their bracelets—tip the scales at 161g and 180g, respectively. By comparison, the Breitling Aerospace feels like you are wearing air. It should also be noted that even at its increased dimensions, the watch remains 4mm thinner than the two aforementioned divers. The svelte case of the Breitling Aeropsace , coupled with the ease and accuracy of its quartz movement, make for an ideal daily wearer. I haven’t taken it off but to sleep since I received it. And that includes my workouts at the gym. I have no doubt—having another titanium watch in my stable already—that the Aerospace will be more than capable of taking a knock or two. As for its functionality, the entire watch is run from its crown. A simple push activates the minute repeater. A quick spin in either direction changes it from mode to mode. A slower rotation activates the backlight. One push to start the chronograph, another to stop. Hold it down for a reset. I have the GMT set to Melbourne, where my sister lives. The alarm goes off at 5am…and you can’t miss it. Additionally, the rehaut has an easily legible 24-hour scale, should you need it. I like the ratcheting bezel, as well. It’s not the hard snap of a Seiko diver, but it does have 120 solid clicks. With 100m of water resistance, and a healthy dose of Super-LumiNova on both its hands and indices, the Aerospace could easily pull double-duty as a skin diver. But the crystal…well, I have never seen AR like this. From most angles you would swear there was no sapphire glass at all. Breitling outline the process behind their crystal manufacturing on their website in a detailed article. In it, they claim their double-sided “glareproofing” eliminates 99% of all reflections. I don’t know how this is measured, but I believe it. In terms of styling, there is no doubt that with the exception of the 4 applied block numerals (an improvement over earlier fonts, IMO), the timepiece still speaks very much an eighties language. The bold, knobby bezel grip points, the brash dial markings, and the assertive logo all have an in-your-face quality. Admittedly, this is not for everyone. Like the continued ana-digi display, these design cues are an acquired taste—an odd jumble of elements that are at once retro and futuristic, as though we are observing a bygone era’s vision of the future. I call it “geeky cool.” And yet, for lack of a better term, I want to describe it as a very masculine design. Its predominantly brushed appearance (the only polish is a thin, broken line around the crystal) and tactical layout, give it a toolish, industrial quality, right down to the bezel screws. The only note of true superfluity might be its contentious bracelet. The angled links can be polarizing among Breitling aficionados, but I think it’s all part of the ugly duckling’s charm. Ultimately, there is only one design choice I can’t get behind, and that’s the hands. It’s a small thing, but while the thin pencil set is better than the partially skeletonized development in the EVO, it still lacks gravitas among so much brazen activity. Practically speaking, I understand the need to maintain visibility of the digital screens—and I don’t have a ready alternative—but it seems to me that something just a little more aggressive is necessary to achieve balance.
Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 44
The Breitling Superocean Automatic 44 watch embodies the distinctive aesthetics and precise essence of the brand. This item was recently incorporated into Breitling’s collection. By fusing traditional allure with contemporary sophistication, this model establishes itself as a benchmark within the luxury watch industry. This recent addition endeavors to appeal to both watch enthusiasts and trendsetters by fusing functionality with sophistication. Strong in construction and fashionable in appearance, it is a one-of-a-kind accessory for any occasion.
With a limited run of 500 pieces, the Breitling Superocean Automatic 44 watch is an uncommon discovery that was introduced exclusively in the United Kingdom. There are two variations of these, with 300 featuring a stainless steel band and 200 featuring a black polyurethane strap; each cost between $5,253 and $5,443. Collectors and fashionable individuals find it even more desirable due to its limited quantity. This recently launched timepiece merges exclusivity and luxury into one.
A classic stainless steel bracelet or a contemporary, functional black rubber strap are both viable strap options for this timepiece. Obtaining one is an uncommon opportunity, as only 500 are produced. The watch’s design allows it to cope with depths of up to 300 meters, making it suitable for professional diving or a brief swim. This Superocean Automatic 44 clock features a Breitling Caliber 17 movement with a power reserve of 38 hours. Its stainless steel body makes it ideal for long-term wear. Furthermore, this clock is suitable for both daringly adventurous sports and regular work.
With its conventional and contemporary elements, the Breitling Superocean Automatic 44 watch breathes in a multifunctional character.
Initially established in 1884 by Léon Breitling, the firm specialized in sports and industrial timing chronographs. Breitling’s swift association with the aviation industry gave way to its production of pilot precision instruments. With excellence and innovation, the organization has maintained its leading position in the watchmaking sector. During the 20th century, Breitling’s fame grew as their chronographs gained popularity among pilots and astronauts. Inventions such as the first autonomous chronograph push piece catapulted the brand to prominence.
Apart from upholding its legacy, Breitling is dedicated to stretching boundaries. Breitling clocks are distinguished by their superb workmanship, precision, and sophistication. The reputation of these timepieces is further backed up by the brand’s relentless commitment to brilliance.
This timepiece is destined to be the favorite of watch devotees owing to its restricted supply and unique traits. While expanding its historical roots, Breitling continues to demonstrate its commitment to superior quality with the Breitling Superocean Automatic 44 watch.
Victoria Beckham Designed A Collection Of 36mm Breitling Chronomats
It’s funny to think that Victoria Beckham’s “entry” into the fashion business started with a denim line named VB Rocks in the early ’00s. The brand gained infamy by pricing its jeans at $300 a pop. Early aughts designer denim brands like Diesel and True Religion were already charging triple digits for jeans. Beckham’s price point, however, was leaps higher than the rest, leaving customers bewildered with sticker shock but also paving the way for what was to become an aggressively profitable segment of the industry. We laugh in hindsight, given the current pervasiveness and frankly exorbitant prices of today’s designer denim. This was before Balenciaga or Gucci or Bottega Veneta was making and incorporating entire lines of denim into their commercial collections. How very prophetic of Beckham.
VB has always been slightly ahead of the curve. A main staple of the cultural lexicon since the ’90s, Beckham’s career trajectory began as one-fifth of the most famous girl band to have ever existed (fight me on this, I dare you) and parlayed into her becoming the matriarch of a global Beckham dynasty. Today, Beckham is also known for being a legitimate force in the fashion industry as the founder and creative director of her eponymous fashion label. Victoria Beckham presents its ready-to-wear collections every season in Paris and retails in 230 stores in 50 countries worldwide.
Last week Beckham presented us with her latest design conquest by releasing a collection of watches in collaboration with Breitling. The Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham collection includes six variations and is limited to 1,500 pieces. It’s quintessential Chronomat with its vertebrae-like rouleaux bullet bracelet that makes you want to run your fingers across the polished grooves every time you come close to touching it (maybe that’s just me?), and has the traditional raised rider tabs at the 15-minute mark. The limited collection comes in two metals: stainless steel and yellow gold – a metal which was brought back from the dead for Breitling, specially for VB. Swiss watch brands, please take note!
The new dial colorways are inspired by Beckham’s own Spring/Summer 2024 palette, including peppermint, midnight blue, dove gray, and sand. The watches feature the Breitling logo on the dial and Victoria Beckham’s initials on the seconds hand. The watches are equipped with self-winding Breitling Caliber 10, which features a date window at six o’clock. The movement has approximately 42 hours of power reserve and is COSC certified.
Despite being a very modest 36mm, the Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham watch still has a lot of heft. It’s chunky in that perfectly ’90s Breitling way – a look we know Beckham aligns with when wearing her personal watches: “Typically I do like a more masculine watch,” she says, “but one that does have a sense of femininity, a sense of elegance.” I can relate to Beckham, as I too prefer a watch with more heft, but it has to be that perfect meet-in-the-middle proportion, that balance of heft and legibility but also of curvature and wearability. The contrast of wearing a larger, more “masculine” watch a little loose on your wrist could in turn make you feel more feminine. Like wearing oversized clothing to make you feel smaller: it’s the boyfriend jean effect.
The watch is by no means a total redesign – it’s a revamp of a classic. Which by the way is fine, Breitling is not looking to reinvent the brand, they’re looking to appeal to a new demographic by tweaking the existing offering. “It was just taking what Breitling does so well and putting my little spin on that,” explained Beckham, “you know, ultimately making the watches that I as a woman desire to wear.”
This partnership isn’t as unlikely as it seems. VB has been wearing watches proudly since her early days of pop stardom. What started as a stainless steel Cartier Tank Française worn in tandem with her then boyfriend David Beckham’s matching Française, developed into a yellow gold Yacht-Master (again, matching with Becks). Then came the countless diamond-set Jacob and Co. Five Time Zone, which eventually, with time, snowballed into a pretty serious watch collection.
VB has always been part of the pop-culture and watch Venn diagram. Given gen Z’s obsession with rehashing ’90s visual cultural ephemera on Instagram, her watch choices from decades past have been immortalized online. The now very famous airport paparazzi pictures of Victoria and David Beckham in 1997 wearing the aforementioned matching Cartier watches even served as inspiration for Gucci’s most recent Creative Director Sabato De Sarno debut campaign for the house late last year. This is the power of the Beckhams. In recent years we have come to know Beckham as a bonafide watch collector; she has been spotted wearing a Nautilus Ref. 7118/1300R-00 and a ref. 116505 Everose Daytona, amongst others. Now Beckham has come to create her own line of watches. Because surely making, not just wearing the product is how you wield real influence in 2024? It’s interesting to note that her new collection of watches is actually a partnership between Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham and her ready-to-wear brand, not VB the woman. Which makes total sense. It’s a way for Beckham and Breitling to cross pollinate watches and the wider world by focusing on design and not just celebrity. Victoria Beckham seems like an obvious choice, but by using her brand as the platform and eliminating herself as the focal point (note, she is not featured in the campaign), it becomes a slightly more earnest and almost more respectable way of speaking to the woman consumer. This is not a collaboration-cum-ambassadorship style gimmick but a fully fledged fashion brand collaboration with a heritage Swiss watch brand.
To be frank, Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham would need to pull a stunt like this because I personally don’t know any women purchasing Breitling watches in 2024. This is a topic brand CEO Georges Kern is very transparent about: “We are predominantly a male brand but why should we close ourselves towards 50% of the market? But we want to be the cool and relaxed alternative in this male [dominated] market and we want to have the same positioning with women’s watches… [A] relaxed alternative to the very conservative and classic Swiss watchmaking.” Beckham understands how to speak to women. Today her look is polished and pristine. Her ready-to-wear line consists of relaxed, slightly deconstructed city tailoring, perfectly cut wool coats and fluid, ankle-grazing silk dresses. It’s for grown-ups. And with a luxury fashion brand comes highly sophisticated campaign imagery – a tactic that Beckham clearly carried over to Breitling for the release of this collection. It seems she was vehemently in control as creative director too, choosing Mario Sorenti to shoot the campaign. Sorenti is a highly esteemed fashion photographer who has spent the last three decades capturing fashion campaigns (with clients including Calvin Klein, Chanel, Saint Laurent) that are forever imprinted onto our memories, by choice or not. Beckham also brought on one of her model-muses to star in the campaign and used full Victoria Beckham looks and accessories to style the shoot. Why waste a perfectly solid marketing opportunity that benefits both brands? And what’s more, why not cultivate imagery that a modern woman with spending power can identify with? I scrolled through countless pictures of VB in multiple listicles all titled something along the lines of “75 best Victoria Beckham outfits of all time.” It became clear to me that despite a few wild card choices in the ’90s (matching his and hers sarongs anybody?), her style has remained consistent since the turn of the millennium. Beckham has, for example, always understood the power of a simple Alaïa dress or the routine of sticking to the same black bug eye sunglasses. It’s her take on a uniform, and often that uniform includes a watch. All of this to say VB’s power in fashion is omnipotent. This may only be a small 1,500 piece dent for now. but let’s see if this yields as much influence as VB is truly capable of.