In 2017, Bell & Ross launched the BR03-92 Diver, bringing the “circle in a square” aesthetic to the underwater world. It was a proper dive watch with a rotating bezel and 300-metre depth rating, and it met the international standard ISO 6425 requirements. There are now five new models for 2024 that bring improvements such as upgraded mechanics, updated typography, enlarged indices, redesigned hands and adaptable straps. Both ceramic and steel cases are offered, although ceramic options like the BR 03-92 Diver Tara in Blue Ceramic have been available since 2019. Let’s take a closer look at the 2024 collection of the Bell & Ross BR 03 Diver.
The case dimensions remain as previous editions of the BR 03 Diver, at 42mm x 42mm with an approximate thickness of 12mm. This new collection comes in satin/polished stainless steel or black ceramic. The steel options feature three dial colours, black, blue and white, while the ceramic model has either a matte black or pale blue all Super-LumiNova dial. For the steel models, there’s a 60-minute unidirectional rotating bezel with colour-coordinated ceramic bezel inserts – black with the black and white dials, and blue with the blue dial. A detailed 15-minute scale is included for diving.
Larger applied indices and new arrow hour and minute hands have white Super-LumiNova inserts (pale green on the white dial) and a circular, dial-matching date window blends in well between 4 and 5 o’clock. The familiar arrangement of an exposed screw at each corner of the square case remains, while the screw-down crown is fully guarded and matches the bezel colour. Water resistance is again rated at 300 metres with ISO 6425 compliance.
The black ceramic models follow the same aesthetic as their steel counterparts, but with a stealthier vibe. The standout is the pale blue Super-LumiNova dial that glows in tandem with the indices and hands for maximum legibility in darkness. This was first seen in 2020 with full-lume ceramic BR 03 Diver models, although those were limited editions. All five models have AR sapphire crystals and solid casebacks secured via four screws. While the BR 03 Diver collection included bronze models as well in the past, like the BR 03-92 Diver Bronze introduced in 2018, this style hasn’t been renewed (yet). Straps are black textured rubber or black ultra-resistant synthetic canvas, with the blue steel model getting a matching blue strap.
Powering all of the new BR 03 Diver models is the Caliber BR-CAL.302-1 automatic, based on the Sellita SW300-1. It has 25 jewels, a beat rate of 28,800vph (4Hz) and an extended power reserve of 54 hours – an upgrade we’ve also seen on the classic BR 03 Collection update last year. Functions include central hours, minutes, hacking seconds and date. This is a proven workhorse and solid performer, and has been used with the entire BR 03 Diver collection.
Category: Bell & Ross Watch
Bell and Ross BR 03-92 Diver Tara
In collaboration with the Tara Océan Foundation, Bell & Ross presents the BR 03-92 DIVER TARA limited edition. This professional-grade diver’s watch has been designed to meet the needs of the crew on board the oceanography exploration schooner Tara, who carries out the organisation’s scientific mission even in extreme conditions. The Tara Ocean Foundation is the first public interest foundation in France dedicated to the Ocean. It has two main missions: exploring the Ocean to better understand it and sharing scientific knowledge about the Ocean to raise public awareness.
For 20 years, the Foundation has been supporting innovative Ocean science, in partnership with world-leading research centres to study marine biodiversity, as well as observing and anticipating the impacts of climate change and pollution. Faced with the urgent need to make the protection of the Ocean a common responsibility, the Foundation raises public awareness of the challenges facing the Ocean, educates young generations, facilitates international cooperation, and mobilises policymakers.
Bell & Ross has always designed watches that are built for action. The BR 03-92 DIVER TARA watch has been adopted by all crew members because of its legibility and efficiency. Regularly confronted with perilous conditions, the crew has to push the limits of the extreme. To cope with the magnitude of their tasks, these experienced scientists and sailors need to be able to count on precise, reliable tools under all circumstances. Every model from the new BR 03-92 DIVER TARA takes part in this commitment: for every watch sold, part of the profits will be donated to the Foundation.
For a perfect symbiosis with the Tara Océan Foundation, Bell & Ross chose to design BR 03-92 DIVER TARA, an instrument watch worthy of the missions undertaken by the scientists on board the schooner Tara. Part of the BR 03 DIVER professional diver’s watch collection, this limited edition watch is waterproof to a depth of 300 metres.
The model features a 42mm matte blue ceramic case and is equipped with a unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel in blue and orange, graduated to 60 minutes as required by professional divers. This efficient timepiece is powered by the BR-CAL 302 self-winding mechanical movement, displaying the hours, minutes, seconds and date. To ensure the display’s perfect readability whether on land, on board or while diving, the deep blue metal dial features applique indexes and white graduation, with optimal luminescence in the dark thanks to a Super- LumiNova coating. The seconds hand features an orange tint, making it immediately identifiable and readable.
The flexible and comfortable strap closes with a steel pin buckle with blue PVD coating and is made of blue woven rubber lined with an ultra-resistant technical material.
bell and ross br03
Bell & Ross might not have been a part of Watches & Wonders, but who says you always need to go to the party to have fun? Instead, the Parisian brand has been slowly unveiling its 2021 novelties on its own terms – a new watch coming every few weeks, a steady drip of takes on the classic square shapes and unorthodox designs it’s best known for. Taking a look at what has been unveiled thus far, one model in particular stands out. The BR 03-93 GMT, was unveiled at the start of this month and uses that famed square silhouette. Importantly, this GMT features a bi-directional 24-hour bezel, updating the previous BR 03-93 GMT design unveiled in 2016 which opted for a fixed bezel. It also follows up on the success of the 2018 BR V2-93 GMT, which was the first of the brand’s designs to use an external rotating 24-hour bezel, though with a more traditional rounded case as its outline.
Two features quickly catch your attention. The first is, of course, the familiar square watch design, deriving from an aviation-inspired style which Bell & Ross has come to dominate over its almost 30-year history. The other is its “Coke” bezel, which draws its influence from the ever-renowned Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II collections that’ve famously featured the colorway.
It goes without saying that the watch is not a Rolex, but what’s significant is this is the first square GMT watch from Bell & Ross to use an external rotating bezel. This is particularly noteworthy because the French watchmaker has been producing GMT designs since 2007, when it launched the BR 03 51 GMT Titanium which featured a second time-zone sub-dial directly on its face. So, in the course of a 29-year history of making square watches, and 14-year history of making GMT watches, only now does the brand bring one of the most popular GMT styles— i.e. an external rotating 24-hour bezel—to the square shape. Furthermore, it is doing so in one of the most popular colorways in the industry for its launch, the red and black “Coke” look, which is only secondary to the red and blue “Pepsi” style.
Significance for the brand aside, the BR 03-93 GMT is, at its core, still a solid new novelty from the brand. With a sturdy 42mm case opting for a layered look with four corner screws, beveling along its edge, an uncommon knurled crown on its right side, and a mixed use of satin finishing and polish throughout, the watch from its case alone reads as a highly durable tool watch – a fact further showcased via its 100-meter water resistance and much talked-about bezel.
Heading underneath its curved sapphire crystal, the dial is straight forward and well executed, with the clear focus on legibility. Along its outer edge is a simple curved white ring marked from 5 to 60 in Arabic numerals for the passing minutes, while applied and lume-filled markers sit within for the hours and smaller printed markers for the remaining minutes. The only flourish to this look comes in a subtle rounded date window towards the 4:30 position. At the center of the dial are a large set of lume-filled hands, the two passing over oversized applied Arabic numerals at each quarter hour and altogether making the process of telling time at a glance highly efficient. These hands are accompanied by a simple tapered seconds counter and, of course, the red-tipped and lume-filled arrow pointer for the watch’s second time-zone.
Inside the GMT is Bell & Ross’ modified ETA 2893-2, which they dub the BR-CAL.303. The automatic movement is modular and derives from the highly popular non-GMT ETA 2892-2, and like that movement, features a hacking seconds mechanism, 42-hour power reserve, and frequency of 28,800 vph – all alongside an independently operated GMT hand. Like the GMT it powers, it’s an easily serviceable, no-nonsense caliber able to keep time efficiently without much flourish.
Bell and Ross BR 05 Chrono Green Steel
THE inspiration behind Bell & Ross alternates between the sky and sea, yet this Franco-Swiss watch brand, known for its expertise in professional instruments, always remains grounded.
The new BR 05 Chrono Green Steel celebrates the fusion of nature contemplation and a penchant for urban performance with its green dial. It embodies contemporary architectural design within a chronograph, tailored for urban exploration. The green dial of the BR 05 Chrono Green Steel breathes fresh life into the urban landscape, elevating the aesthetics of sports and city watches. Green, a colour symbolising luck, nature and hope, serves as an inclusive source of inspiration, resonating with a generation aspiring for renewal and change.
Steel, as a material representing the emergence of new cities, showcases strength and shine. It is only fitting that the components of the 42mm diameter case, with its iconic “rounded square” design emblematic of Bell & Ross, are carved out of stainless steel to manifest the watch’s urban and modern spirit.
The satin-brushed surfaces with polished bevels accentuate the thickness and elegant sophistication, akin to the play of lights in a contemporary city. The structured steel case, complemented by the green dial, seamlessly merges organic and geometric elements, appealing to modern city explorers.
The integration of the steel strap into the case gives the BR 05 Chrono Green Steel a truly contemporary appearance. This design pays homage to watch styles that originated in the 1970s and has been adapted to Bell & Ross’ distinctive identity, resulting in a clear, modern, and graphic timepiece that is versatile and easily readable.
The green dial with light-diffusing effects accentuates its strengths, featuring a chronograph minutes counter at three o’clock and a small seconds counter at nine o’clock. A discreet date aperture is positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, demonstrating the watch’s focus on essential functionalities. The new Green Steel model belongs to the BR 05 family, representing the brand’s range of chronographs, housing the mechanical self-winding BR-CAL301 movement known for its robustness, reliability, and efficiency.
Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the rotor showcases a finely skeletonised full disc inspired by a car rim, a distinctive signature of Bell & Ross automatic movements. Bell & Ross continues to expand its BR 05 line with a new green sunray dial option. The BR 05 Chrono Green Steel adds contrast while retaining the seamless look of the brand’s modern sport watch. The watch is available with an integrated satin-polished steel bracelet or a green rubber strap to complement the dial. The watch also features a 42mm case, which houses the BR-CAL.326, an automatic movement that has a power reserve of 38 hours.
Bell and Ross BR 05 Chrono A523
Bell & Ross, French in origin, have been actively involved as a timing partner in Formula 1 for quite some years now. It started with Renault Sport Formula 1, which has since changed its name to BWT Alpine F1 Team but is still in essence the same team as when Bell & Ross entered F1 in 2016. Fielding French racing drivers Pierre Gasly and Esteban Ocon, you can talk about a genuine French connection between the watch manufacturer and the racing team. Every year, Bell & Ross announces one or multiple limited editions celebrating the partnership between the two, and this year is no exception. New for the 2023 season is the Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono A523, which makes for the first Alpine F1-inspired BR 05 model. So, as the UK Grand Prix at Silverstone is just around the corner, keep your eyes focused on the wrists of both drivers for a chance to spot this new racing-inspired chronograph.
Named after this year’s F1 car, just as last year’s watch was named after last year’s car, Bell & Ross switched from the square BR 03 range to the square-ish BR 05 collection, specifically the chronograph. The Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono A523 has the familiar rounded square stainless steel case, that measures 42mm in width and 14.25mm in height. The raised bezel is fixed with functional screws in all four corners, and the crown, crown guards and pushers are all positioned on the right-hand side. The circular sapphire crystal breaks up the overall square-ish looks, as the sapphire caseback does on the backside of the watch.
It should come as no surprise the Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono A523 comes with touches of the A523’s racing livery on the dial. The matte black base dial has a blue tachymeter flange on the outer periphery, and blued hands for the chronograph. The applied indices, as well as the hands for the running time, are finished in white with Super-LumiNova. The date is positioned between 4′ and 5′. A cool touch is the Alpine A-shaped logo that serves as a counterweight to the central chronograph seconds hand. Furthermore, there is a white minute track that looks a bit like curbstones on the edge of a corner on a race track, and a white ring surrounding the subdials.
Similar to previous editions of the BR 05 Chrono, this Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono A523 edition relies on an externally sourced automatic chronograph, in this case from Sellita. This BR-CAL.326 power unit runs at a rate of 28,800vph and has a power reserve of about 60 hours, a very welcome upgrade over the 38 hours of the BR-CAL.301 that previously powered the BR 05 Chrono. It displays central hours and minutes, with a small seconds subdial at 9′. The chronograph function uses a central seconds hand and a 30-minute counter at 3′. Although no image has been provided, the caseback is sapphire crystal.
Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT Sky Blue
Following its first release in 2021 and the immaculate BR 05 GMT White late last year, Bell & Ross takes it to the sky with its latest BR 05 GMT Sky Blue timepiece. Deeply rooted in the borrowed technicality and functionality from the world of aeronautics, the maison is dedicated to creating time instruments that are both appealing to urban dwellers and jet setters. Today, the new BR 05 GMT Sky Blue celebrates a coming-together of the azure sky and the blue planet. A celestial and inspiring hue, natural as much as symbolic, modern yet millennial — but most of all, it is a universal colour that can be found everywhere. The new BR 05 GMT Sky Blue is all about duality. Dedicated to season travellers as well as city dwellers, the narrative transcends both aerial and urban, sporty and chic. The watch is designed for travelling, offering contemporary globetrotters a clear and simple display of a second time zone thanks to a fourth hand. For perfect readability, this hand with a large white arrow-shaped tip instantly indicates the time of the country of origin thanks to a 24-hour graduated inner bezel. The flange is constructed with a two-tone treatment, sky blue and silver, satin-brushed and rhodium-plated — allowing its wearer to immediately identify the difference between the hours of the day and those of the night. In the same veins as all Bell & Ross watches, the timepiece goes beyond style but provides accurate instruments for professionals. It also benefits from the expertise of luminescence thanks to the Super-LumiNova coated hands. The rhodium-plated baton-shaped indexes are also coated with this material — restoring light in the dark.
Take a closer look and notice the date in a rectangular window at 3 o’clock, surrounded by metal — another soft detail that elevates the appeal of this new timepiece.
In the heart of the BR 05 GMT Blue Sky is a self-winding mechanical movement — the Sellita movement, BR-CAL.325 calibre. Enthusiasts of watchmaking mechanics will take advantage of the sapphire caseback to observe, as though through a porthole, the specific finishes and the 360° rotations of the oscillating weight. To guarantee water resistance up to 100 metres, the crown is screwed in, making the watch perfectly versatile for daily use, both at the office and during vacations. When it comes to daily use, the timepiece is flexible. There are two types of attachments to choose from according to your needs. A stainless-steel bracelet that fits perfectly into a 41mm wide case, as well as a blue rubber strap that perfectly matches the tint of the watch.
Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT
The latest addition to Bell & Ross‘ pilot’s watch squadron, the BR 03-93 GMT Blue, comes with a blue dial and blue-grey aluminum rotating bezel. It offers the display of a second time zone via the 24-hour additional hand, which can be moved forward and backward in hourly increments. The bidirectional bezel allows for the setting of another time zone. The stainless steel case measures 42mm by 42mm in diameter and is water resistant to 100 meters. The BR 03-93 GMT Blue is powered by the automatic caliber SW 330.
Bell & Ross might not have been a part of Watches & Wonders, but who says you always need to go to the party to have fun? Instead, the Parisian brand has been slowly unveiling its 2021 novelties on its own terms – a new watch coming every few weeks, a steady drip of takes on the classic square shapes and unorthodox designs it’s best known for. Taking a look at what has been unveiled thus far, one model in particular stands out. The BR 03-93 GMT, was unveiled at the start of this month and uses that famed square silhouette. Importantly, this GMT features a bi-directional 24-hour bezel, updating the previous BR 03-93 GMT design unveiled in 2016 which opted for a fixed bezel. It also follows up on the success of the 2018 BR V2-93 GMT, which was the first of the brand’s designs to use an external rotating 24-hour bezel, though with a more traditional rounded case as its outline.Two features quickly catch your attention. The first is, of course, the familiar square watch design, deriving from an aviation-inspired style which Bell & Ross has come to dominate over its almost 30-year history. The other is its “Coke” bezel, which draws its influence from the ever-renowned Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II collections that’ve famously featured the colorway.
It goes without saying that the watch is not a Rolex, but what’s significant is this is the first square GMT watch from Bell & Ross to use an external rotating bezel. This is particularly noteworthy because the French watchmaker has been producing GMT designs since 2007, when it launched the BR 03 51 GMT Titanium which featured a second time-zone sub-dial directly on its face. So, in the course of a 29-year history of making square watches, and 14-year history of making GMT watches, only now does the brand bring one of the most popular GMT styles— i.e. an external rotating 24-hour bezel—to the square shape. Furthermore, it is doing so in one of the most popular colorways in the industry for its launch, the red and black “Coke” look, which is only secondary to the red and blue “Pepsi” style.
Significance for the brand aside, the BR 03-93 GMT is, at its core, still a solid new novelty from the brand. With a sturdy 42mm case opting for a layered look with four corner screws, beveling along its edge, an uncommon knurled crown on its right side, and a mixed use of satin finishing and polish throughout, the watch from its case alone reads as a highly durable tool watch – a fact further showcased via its 100-meter water resistance and much talked-about bezel.
Heading underneath its curved sapphire crystal, the dial is straight forward and well executed, with the clear focus on legibility. Along its outer edge is a simple curved white ring marked from 5 to 60 in Arabic numerals for the passing minutes, while applied and lume-filled markers sit within for the hours and smaller printed markers for the remaining minutes. The only flourish to this look comes in a subtle rounded date window towards the 4:30 position. At the center of the dial are a large set of lume-filled hands, the two passing over oversized applied Arabic numerals at each quarter hour and altogether making the process of telling time at a glance highly efficient. These hands are accompanied by a simple tapered seconds counter and, of course, the red-tipped and lume-filled arrow pointer for the watch’s second time-zone. Inside the GMT is Bell & Ross’ modified ETA 2893-2, which they dub the BR-CAL.303. The automatic movement is modular and derives from the highly popular non-GMT ETA 2892-2, and like that movement, features a hacking seconds mechanism, 42-hour power reserve, and frequency of 28,800 vph – all alongside an independently operated GMT hand. Like the GMT it powers, it’s an easily serviceable, no-nonsense caliber able to keep time efficiently without much flourish.
Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Gold
In the few short years since its introduction in 2019, the Bell & Ross BR 05 has quickly become one of the cornerstone offerings within the brand’s catalog. Unlike the various models that make up the “Instruments” series, which almost look like they came directly from the cockpit of an aircraft, the BR 05 is part of the “Urban” lineup, which offers a more refined and streamlined take on the classic Bell & Ross signature aesthetic. A skeletonized version of the BR 05 has been part of the range since the very beginning, and Bell & Ross has released a new iteration of it in a different color every year since its launch. The classic clear version was the inaugural model from 2019, and it was followed by a blue one in 2020, a smoked variation in 2021 (known as the NightLum), and a green version last year in 2022. Now for 2023, we have the Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Golden, which offers a warm, golden orange take on this fan favorite skeletonized sports watch design.
Aside from offering a new colorway, the Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Golden is otherwise entirely identical to previous iterations of the watch, which means that it uses the same square-shaped stainless steel case with rounded corners that measures 40mm in diameter by 10.33mm thick. Just like previous versions of the BR 05 Skeleton, the new “Golden” model features a pair of sapphire crystals fitted to both its bezel and caseback, which allows for an entirely unobstructed view of the internal skeletonized movement and allows you to see straight through the open-worked areas of the watch. Similarly, like other BR 05 models, angular crown guards are separately attached to the middle case in order to offer protection for a signed winding crown that screws down to help create 100 meters of water resistance. While there is nothing new about the case of the Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Golden, the defining element of this particular model is the color of the transparent dial fitted to the watch.
The dial and hands fitted to the new Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Golden offer an identical design and layout to previous executions of the model, with the key differences being the colors and finishing of the components. The surface of the dial is a transparent golden orange color, and it is surrounded by a galvanized golden chapter ring with applied baton-shaped hour markers extending from it. At the center of the dial are a trio of gold-finished hands, and both the hour and minute hand (along with all of the hour markers) are coated with Grade X1 White 10 Super-LumiNova, which appears white in the daylight and emits a green glow in the dark. The decision to lean into the golden colorway for the hands and dial accents helps create a warmer overall appearance, and it is ultimately these gold tones that make this iteration the “Golden” model, rather than just being the orange version of the BR 05 Skeleton watch.
Given that this new watch is essentially just a dial variation of the other skeletonized models that have been released over the course of the last few years, the new Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Golden is powered by the same BR-CAL.322 automatic movement that can be found inside its different colored siblings. As this skeletonized caliber is based upon the core design of the popular Sellita SW300-1, the BR-CAL.322 runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz), while offering users a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Additionally, since it doesn’t have a calendar disc or any of the other components that make up a date mechanism, the self-winding BR-CAL.322 is able to offer a highly open-worked design, which is further complimented by its custom skeletonized Bell & Ross oscillating weight.
Just like other BR 05 models, the new Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Golden offers what could really be considered an integrated bracelet design, although it is available with the option of either the model’s signature tapered H-link bracelet (ref. BR05A-CH-SKST/SST) or an integrated style of rubber strap (ref. BR05A-CH-SKST/SRB). The bracelet is identical to what can be found on other models from the BR 05 collection, and it features brushed and polished surfaces with a butterfly-style folding clasp. Meanwhile, the rubber strap is the same style that can be found on other Bell & Ross watches, although it is crafted from brown rubber to complement the warm golden tones of the dial, and it features a matching stainless steel folding clasp.
Bell & Ross BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France
In keeping with the tradition since 2008, Bell & Ross releases a new watch at the request of the French Air Force. This 2022 edition is with the famous acrobatic unit Patrouille de France, with the new BR 03 Type A.
The new Bell & Ross BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France REF. BR03AD-BBR-ST/SRB is a limited edition of only 100 copies, and has a retail price of SGD 6,100 inclusive of GST. Pre-orders are open online now, for delivery in December.
We covered the 2021 edition of the Patrouille de France by Bell & Rossin their BR 03-94 Patrouille de France. This time, for 2022, Bell & Ross again chose to use the rounded square design of the BR 03, but euipped it with a new multi function quartz movement with multi-function analogue-digital display instead of the mechanical chronograph used in 2021. The watch chosen for the 2022 Patrouille de France Edition is based on the BR 03 Type A Armée de L’Air of 2008 instead of the 2021 Patrouille de France. The novelty is the same watch as the 2008 version, but with a different dial, and colour scheme reflective of the different collaboration.
The display is also reminiscent of dial which is indicative of the movement used in the Aerospace (Breitling B76) and the B79 in the Emergency II. Both these movements are based on the ETA 988.352 Thermoline. The BR-CAL 103 shows the same features, and is probably also based on the same ETA movement, though Bell & Ross does not state the source of the movement. And also left out a critical specification that the movement is thermo compensated. The ETA is a highly respected movement, well known for its very high precision timekeeping capabilities. It also shines in the use of both digital and analogue indicators to maximise the dial space for excellent, clear displays.
Since it was founded in 1994, aviation and the military universe have been the main sources of inspiration for Bell & Ross. That’s why, through their design, dial and functionality, so many Bell & Ross watches still evoke the world of aeronautical instruments: one of the most demanding when it comes to readability and reliability.
Testament to the excellence achieved by Bell & Ross, elite units from various nations’ armed forces have chosen the watchmaker’s timepieces to accompany them in their perilous missions. So it is with the Patrouille de France, one of the most prestigious acrobatic formations in the world: a true ambassador of the French wings that embodies the expertise of the Air and Space Force.
Today, Bell & Ross is launching a new watch designed and produced in close collaboration with the Patrouille de France pilots, whose emblem of course adorns the dial.
“Bell & Ross shares the same values of precision and performance as the pilots in this elite aerobatic unit,” says Bruno Belamich, the watchmaker’s co-founder and creative director. After forging an official watchmaking partnership with the Patrouille de France in 2021, resulting in the launch of its first dedicated watch, Bell & Ross continues its aerial adventure with the BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France. With its spectacular dial, this timepiece follows in the brand’s tradition: in 2008, it was at the request of the Air Force that Bell & Ross designed the BR 03 Type A instrument for fighter pilots. Now in the colours of the Patrouille de France, this new version is heir to the brand’s true tool watch.
It goes without saying that this watch respects rigorous specifications in line with the needs of Patrouille de France pilots, who manoeuvre in close formation at speeds of between 300 and 800 km/h. When the gap between two planes is only two or three metres, there is no room for even the slightest error. Knowing that it all plays out in a tiny fraction of time, time mastery has always been a professional pillar for these aerobatic aces. As such, all the technical expertise of Bell & Ross engineers and watchmakers came into play to create the BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France.
Adopting the aesthetic “rounded square” concept that constitutes a veritable visual signature for Bell & Ross, and designed for and by elite pilots, this new chronograph features the square BR 03 case in steel, with a diameter of 42mm.
Intended for professional use, the watch is equipped with a quartz movement giving a dual analogue and digital display. The high drain battery provides 30 months of battery life. To provide the best possible readability even in intense situations, the hours and minutes are displayed with conventional hands, while the seconds are displayed on a digital screen. “This device gives pilots optimal reading speed,” stresses Bruno Belamich. In addition, the bidirectional rotating bezel helps memorise time references.
Beyond time indications, the BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France offers many additional functions that come in useful in whatever the circumstance: 1/100th of a second chronograph with intermediate and additional time, countdown, alarm, date and dual time zone.
The window at the top of the dial displays the abbreviation of the chosen function. The second window, positioned at the bottom of the dial, digitally displays the measurement. The various functions are selected by pressing the crown.As a sign of its exclusivity, only 100 copies of the BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France will be produced. Each pilot in the unit will be given with one of these emblematic watches, which has all the elements to fast become a collector’s item.
Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT White
Bell & Ross has recently announced a new version of the BR 05 GMT, which features a silver-white dial and adds a second color option to the GMT models of the integrated-bracelet styling of the BR 05 lineup. With a legible red 24-hour hand, this caller GMT looks great with a silver dial and is also the first time that B&R designers have offered a BR 05 in a color that wasn’t black and blue. I think they chose well.
Like the black dial BR 05 GMT that was launched last year, the BR 05 GMT White uses a 41mm steel case and can be had with a full steel bracelet or a rubber strap that is designed to integrate directly with the case and its non-traditional lug shape. The case is 11.07mm thick and has a screw-down crown, 100 meters of water resistance, and sapphire crystals front and back (with the back offering a view of the BR 05 GMT’s 360-degree oscillating weight).
Inside, we find a GMT movement that is based on the Sellita SW-330 and which Bell & Ross calls the BR-Cal 325. It’s an automatic movement that ticks at 4 Hz, has ~42 hours of power reserve, and features a date at three along with a caller-style 24-hour independently adjustable GMT function. This means that you can adjust your view of a second timezone without changing or disrupting the main time display. While somewhat more cumbersome to use when actively changing time zones, this GMT function is very handy for keeping track of a second time zone.
While I remain a complete sucker for a white-dialed GMT, that’s not the only reason that I figured this new Bell & Ross was worth a closer look – I’ve been curious about the BR 05 since it was launched in 2019 with a 40mm automatic model. I like the design, and the sort of instrument-like take on the Genta-derived integrated bracelet sports watch format. Furthermore, the sizing seems good and they appear to look great on wrist. Bell & Ross has always been of interest to me, but I’ve never found one of their quirky square-cased models that actually worked really well on my bony wrist. Perhaps a bracelet would make all the difference.
And now they have a GMT in a white dial. Sure, the dial and hand design have borrowed a good deal from the Explorer II, but they are far from the only brand to find some inspiration via the Rolex catalog, and I’d argue that the square case and general aesthetic insulate the BR 05 GMT from feeling altogether too similar. Furthermore, I like that they maintain much of the Bell & Ross design language in the dial (especially with the large Arabic markers) and the use of the white/grey 24-hour rehaut.
At $5,000 and using a third-party movement, the BR 05 GMT has stiff competition. Collectors with more conventional tastes would likely opt for a Tudor Black Bay GMT, which offers local jumping (flyer) functionality, classic GMT styling, and a case of the same width (though a good bit thicker). Additionally, and I’m not comparing the two on build quality or general aesthetic, if you simply want a caller GMT, Seiko will happily sell you a lovely model with the same functionality for around $500.
But let’s be fair, the BR 05 GMT offers an entirely different look and feel to the above-mentioned competition and I’d argue that Bell & Ross is both not new to this price point and that cost sensitivity is likely not a core concern for B&R’s intended audience. As a guy who has long had the BR 03-92 Diver hanging out rent-free in my mind, this new BR 05 GMT marks the first time I’ve had anything more than professional curiosity in the lineup and I think it’s a handsome addition that I’d love to try on my own wrist. But what do you think – is the BR 05 GMT a good candidate for a hands-on follow-up? Let me know in the comments.