On the occasion of the Chinese New Year, Breguet is celebrating the Year of the Rabbit with an 8 pieces limited edition timepiece dedicated to women. This watch, from the Classique collection, showcases a combination of in-house artisanal techniques: the enamel and engraving expertise. The Breguet Classique 9075 – 2023 Chinese New Year Edition is an artistic interpretation adorned with 6 rabbits whose beauty gently manifests women’s sense of smartness and nimbleness.
“Rabbit” represents well wishes in China. It is one of the Chinese zodiac signs which is closely associated with symbols of playfulness and smartness. Breguet has drawn inspiration from the qualities of the rabbits and the manufacture’s artisans have combined it with sophisticated enamel craftsmanship and hand-engraving techniques which bring to life this lively, free-spirited creature in a new timepiece in the Classique Collection.
Vividly and exquisitely, the dial depicts a dynamic scene in which 6 rabbits are playing around the greens
against the backdrop of fluffy clouds. All the patterns are hand-engraved on an 18-carat white gold dial.
While the central motif is engraved below the surface of the enamel, rabbits are engraved on the enamel
and outlined at a maximum height. The engraving of gold applied in watchmaking is a bas-relief technique consisting in sculpting patterns in the extremely small dimensions of a watch. After sketching designs, the craftsman performs his demanding work using different engraving tools like chisels, while observing the component under the microscope. This is the most delicate step in the process of creation. This is followed by the cleaning and polishing of the work, which reveals its full splendour.
Beyond providing decoration to the dial, enamel work is a particularly specialised craft, one requiring rigour, patience, and technical mastery. After careful preparation, the enamel is applied on the dial in several layers and placed in an oven at 800℃. The translucent enamel and the opaque white enamel need to be applied in successive layers. The combination of 2 glazes at the same time increases the difficulty because imperfections must be avoided and each colour must remain homogeneous.
Therefore, the enamelled needs to master the knowledge of painting and colours of the enamel after firing, as well as how each colour changes at different temperatures so as to control the application and firing of successive layers and ensure none of the firings disturbs the layer are applied. Finally, the dial must remain at a well-defined final thickness, securing a delicate stage of sizing as well as height and aesthetic finishing of the dial. Nowadays, only a handful of Swiss artisans master this craft. The Manufacture Breguet Classique 9075 is fortunate to count on this expertise within its manufacture, located in the Vallée de Joux.
The Breguet Classique 9075 model combines traditional Haute Horlogerie refinement with aesthetic elegance. At its heart beats the hand-decorated self-winding 591C calibre. The movement is equipped with a silicon in-line Swiss lever escapement and a silicon flat balance spring. This movement, equipped with 171 components, beats at a frequency of 4 Hz and has a 38-hour power reserve. The case resistance is 3 bar (30m). As in Breguet tradition, the components of the calibre are all finished by hand, by the craftsmen of the Manufacture. The timepiece can also be admired from the back with its gold oscillating weight, delicately decorated with barleycorn patterns guilloche work.
At Breguet, artistic crafts are not merely a means of enhancing watchmaking mechanics. They are part of the DNA of the House, which has since 1775 consistently devoted equal importance to aesthetics, technique and innovation on the same level. Notably with Guillochage, which is a heritage that Breguet Classique 9075 has done more than merely preserve: some 30 guilloché lathes have been rebuilt within the Manufacture itself. While similar to the antique machines, they are endowed with the latest ergonomic, lighting, optical and precision equipments. The workshop thus is one of the most important in the entire watchmaking industry and its artisans are capable of executing a wide range of geometric patterns. With a view of constant development a research and creative department, notably responsible for developing new motifs, has been specially dedicated to this art form.